Type: Trad
FA: John Reppy, Sam Bailey, 1949
Page Views: 2,089 total · 13/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

This route climbs up an obvious crack, around the left edge of the roof that Kor Crack surmounts. The crux is the section immediately below the roof. Above, follow an easy corner to a ledge. Either continue up the same crack (harder) or step right to an easier finish.

This was John Reppy's first FA at Ragged. An attempt to commemorate this on its 50th anniversary was turned back by cold weather. Not many climbers can go back to their FAs 50 years later.

Location

An obvious crack system just left of Bushy Groove.

Protection

Standard traprock rack - a big cam might help on the right side finish.

Photos

Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
A real grunt-fest through the chimney section. My second tried climbing the face instead and finally gave up and crawled inside the chimney muttering expletives. Nov 15, 2008
Francisco Di Poi
Boulder, CO
Francisco Di Poi   Boulder, CO
fun lead...good pro from comfortable positions Sep 11, 2009
Joel A
  5.7
Joel A  
  5.7
I had a hard time protecting the crux. (They say there was a chockstone to sling for the crux pro - either it's gone or I managed to miss it.) Jun 26, 2012
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
No the chockstone is still there--it's hard to tell that you can sling it until you get above it. I thought slinging the chockstone was key for keeping it "G" Jul 8, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Great route! Yes the chimney was tough. Slinging the chockstone is key. Otherwise its very run out. May 23, 2017