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Routes in Main Cliff

A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Aid Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Way T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Angle of the Dangle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Animal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ashtray TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Bald Face Hornet T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Birdman TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Orchid TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bombay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bombay Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broadway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushy Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cage, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carey Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caroline TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cemetary Vault T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chopper flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crag Rat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crisis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Cutting Edge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cygnus X-1 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Vision TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Duck Soup TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Easy Rider TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End Run T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eternity TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Faceout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Madmen Only T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Golden Age TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Gutter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hangnail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hangover TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hemlock Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Rocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hurricane Gloria T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Juniper Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Gambit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Move T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kor Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lavaredo Corner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Leftover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marlinspike T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
NCS Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Netherlands TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
North End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North by North West T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nux Vomica TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Obsession T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Out Of Orbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Owl Perch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison and Passion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pork Barrel Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ragged Edge TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Edge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sandbag TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Side Entry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sisu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skull and Bones T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Subline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunday Bulge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Song TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweat Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terminal Velocity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Un Petit Peu TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unconquerable Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vajolet Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vector T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Visions TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Visitor's Reception Center TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
War Eagle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wet Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wiessner Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiessner Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wishbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YMC Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: Morgan Patterson 06/10/12 (TR)
Page Views: 2,550 total, 38/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Jun 12, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Location

The Ragged Arete

Description

Starting about 10 ft right of Carey's Corner crack, step up to the start holds for Cygnus X-1. Climb to the decent horizontal just below the large overlap, follow the horizontal left for several feet and reach up to a large jug/rest at the base of the Ragged Arete where it joins the face. Layback out the arete to gain a stance just below the small overlap. From the small overlap continue up the arete using decent holds to a good stance (almost no hands). From this rest stance work several tenuous moves to an undercling flake on the corner. At the flake make a crux swinging move (utilizing the sidepull on the flake) left around the corner. Once established on the left side of the arete, work a compression sequence up the seam and arete to the top of the Ragged Arete. Fist pump.

I believe this is an FA, if you know otherwise speak up! This line is a link up, Swan Song into Black Orchid.

Protection

An anchor and a top rope...

Photos

Topo Gigio  
 
haha no way. thing is pretty stout...and a pain in the butt to get restablished with the overhang on TR. pretty sweet line though. Nov 24, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Ha.. well at Ragged, TR is something... All those lines on the arete have only been done TR but I think Golden Age might be managed on lead one day.

And that's awesome you guys are trying the North End Proj.. how'd it go? What did you guys think? Do you think it'll go/go soon? Nov 24, 2015
Topo Gigio  
 
oh okay. my partner must've got the second and I the third (if TR means anything). we warmed up on all those variations that day before heading to try the 13+/14- on the North End that our friend told us about Nov 24, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Awesome, thanks for sharing Topo and congrats on the Second! Straight up the whole way is Swan Song and I'd agree, that has the most flow. Nov 24, 2015
Topo Gigio  
 
Having now sent all the lines in this corner/arête area I can say Golden Age is pretty cool and is a stout 12a/b. Could be harder for shorter individuals. However, I found that while the arête was fun, I think the most natural line in that area is the straight up direct line from bottom to top. The move left around the arête was obvious, but I felt it took away from that natural flow of the climb. Good tough line nonetheless Nov 23, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Hahahaha... you made me laugh thnx man. I was kinda like really only two stars??

I think one could stay on route and place gear, i just don't think you could fall on the upper half of the route. Did you lead Black Orchid? That could be a first lead for that route. May 15, 2015
No- I was drunk and meant to grade black orchid. The comment was just curiosity - I was just wondering if you could traverse off route and halfway up CC, slam cams into C.C, traverse down/back in.

You know, standard bullshit when there's no fixed protection available. May 15, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Looks like you got the SA Chris? Did you send on TR or on Lead? Surprised you think its only 11c/d... the move around the corner at the undercling and subsequent compression sequence always felt a harder then 11+.

I've always though that you could probably get some cams in Cary's Corner on the lower section. But what would you do to protect the top half of the route? Falling at the crux move around the corner wld lead to a large swinging fall into the left wall. Falling beyond that point, I wouldn't even want to think about let alone the rescue effort to get you off the mnt. May 11, 2015
Would the FFA count if you managed to slot a cam or three into Carey corner? May 10, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
RMF prohibits the placement of any fixed gear. As their by-law is written, a climber could infact drill holes and place removable gear and still be in compliance. None of the routes on this arete have ever been lead... that's the draw. Jul 8, 2014
Why do they have to be removable.... Jun 27, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
So who wants to pitch in some loot?? I'll get the ninja suit ready... Jun 26, 2014
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
RBs hold whips, no excuse. Jun 26, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Ha... already got the FFA haha! U might be able to do it on gear but it'd be R/X probably and drilling holes in that just to place RB's (that aren't meant to hold whippers) seems kinda silly.

Historically everything on this corner has been done on TR and claimed as FA/FFA. Sam Slater & Swan Song, Bill Lutkis and Black Orchid (FA on aid then TR for FFA), KN and Cygnus X. Though to be the first to lead a route on this corner would be pretty impressive. Jun 23, 2014
Removable boltl technology does exist. I think you should lead it and get the FA Jun 20, 2014
guy bon  
invalid until lead clean. c'mon momo, sack up and get out your duct tape. All I see is an open project ;) Jun 20, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Still... no second ascent??? Come'mon CT who doesn't love a good TR? Jun 18, 2014
yo you mean like ken "do as I say not as I did" nichols? Jun 27, 2013
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
then talk shit about it Jun 26, 2013
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
you should bolt it, lead it and then chop it so nobody else can lead it with bolts Jun 26, 2013