Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Roger Whitney
Page Views: 6,295 total · 40/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Description

Another ancient classic - a route way ahead of its time.

The start is easily located - a detached pillar about 45 feet past (left of) Wiessner Slab marks the route. Things start off easy but the business begins when a small overhang is reached. Follow the crack to the top.

Protection

Some extra big pieces (#3, #4 camalots) let you sew up the crux if you want to.

Photos

Amazing to think about Fritz leading this in the gear du jour with just a couple of pitons....... May 5, 2009
Eric  
If you didn't bring any big cams, it's not a big deal. Once over the little roof, you can place smaller gear in the back of the crack where it is much less flaring. If I recall correctly, think a .5 or .75 fits nicely if you place it deep enough. Mar 14, 2010
Timmijal  
 
Great route big cams are nice but can do without. I am not from the area and used the old New England rock climbing guide to find the place. i talk with a few locals and apparently you can access this from parking up the road. The guide had me park at a golf coarse and hike 30 minutes to the crag. Mar 20, 2011
John Peterson
  5.8+
John Peterson  
  5.8+
The whole golf course approach is silly. I updated the description at the Ragged Mountain page. Mar 20, 2011
Eric G.
Saratoga Springs, NY
Eric G.   Saratoga Springs, NY
Super "G" and I felt like I wrestled an alligator afterwards, but that's probably because I exhausted myself placing too much gear. Apr 8, 2013
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
CTdave   Victor, Id.
 
if you dont have any bigger cams big nuts work just as well further back. i stuck all of mine on this crack Aug 15, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
I can still clearly remember making those strenuous moves over the little roof and in the crack above--I'd been lured into thinking the whole thing was just a cruise until then (this would have been about 1976). All we had then were straight-sided stoppers, hexes, and 1-inch webbing. Gosh, I suddenly feel very old. Really should go back to Ragged this year, for old times sake (with cams, LOL). Aug 22, 2013
JIncillo  
 
Got about halfway up this today on lead and was warned by a nearby climber that a large bird just perched on the ledge above me. I looked straight up and a large hawk (maybe falcon) was staring me down. Needless to say that was an interesting down climb. Jul 19, 2014
Nick W
Orford, NH
Nick W   Orford, NH
Easier than it looks - face holds help. Much easier than Carey Corner IMO. Nov 7, 2016
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.9
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.9
I believe Fritz used just one piton, placed just below the small OH. Mar 22, 2017
ckersch
 
ckersch  
 
The difficulty comes down to a single 5-10 foot long section where the face holds go away. You can place pro at will through the crux, though, and the jams are good if you're good at jams. Aug 14, 2017
Troy Manzitti
Norfolk, VA
 
Troy Manzitti   Norfolk, VA
 
The country's first 5.8!!! To expand on the description of "a route way ahead of its time"...

From Yankee Rock & Ice, in 1935 Fritz "completed what probably remained the hardest single lead in the country for almost 20 years". This is the epitome of the word "classic". You must get on this route if ever visiting Ragged. Oct 5, 2017