Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Fritz Wiessner, 1930s
Page Views: 7,995 total · 51/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


81 Opinions

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Description

This is the traditional beginners route at the Main Cliff. It ascends the obvious lower-angle slab that has detached itself from the main cliff. Two lines are available: on the left side, following some small cracks, and on the right side leading up face to a right-facing corner system.

This climb does not go to the top of the face but there is usually a rap anchor on the large ledge atop the slab.

Protection

Wires and small cams.
Paul Crowder  
 
In spite of this route's modest technical rating, you need to have good skills with traditional gear in order to safely lead it. The variation on the right, for instance, requires small nuts such as RPs or small stoppers in order to protect its small corner system. Effective placement of that kind of gear is a pretty sophisticated skill. Mar 13, 2006
Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.3
Eli Kramer   Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.3
The crack on the left side of the slab protects well. Sep 12, 2009
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
I agree that the line on the left does protect well but I did have trouble placing gear just before the top of the climb. Also, it was a little tough building an anchor at the top. I used some marginal cracks near the left corner and backed up with a bush/small tree. I didn't use the rappel anchor as it's way off to the right side and I didn't want to create a lot of rope drag or possible swing for the second. Oct 6, 2009
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
One of my first free solo's, fun little route. Jun 13, 2011