Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,054 total · 19/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 12, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

This is the easiest way to the top of the cliff from Wiessner.

From the ledge at the top of the slab, downclimb underneath the boulder wedged in the crack on the right side of the ledge and step onto a small traverse ledge leading right. Not hard, but sort of strange. The bolt above you (if in place) marks Knight's Gambit. Ignore it.

Follow this ledge right (easy but exposed) to its end and pull up a short boulder problem.

You're now crossing Wet Wall. Climb up and take the right-hand set of corners to the top. Or follow Wet Wall on the left.

It can be hard to protect the second on the traverse. I drop the other end of the rope down to protect the initial moves where the route goes down and around the boulder when I have a beginner on this route.

Location

At the top of Wiessner Slab

Protection

Standard traprock rack

Photos

Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
The bolt is long gone.

The crux is just after the traverse. A bit stout for 5.4 IMHO.

Easiest to protect the second's traverse when led with double ropes. After the crux, move up and left (off-route). Place a cam high over the traverse and clip one rope. Yeah, it's off-route, but easy to place and clean.

The Fasulo book indicates that K.M. stays left in the right-facing corner and doesn't actually cross Wet Wall (which it says goes up the to the right). This makes sense, especially on a busy day. Nov 18, 2013
Ross Ayer
Southington, CT
Ross Ayer   Southington, CT
Great route. Agreed, it has one stiff move, but great pro the whole way. You can also backclean to help with drag, but you want some good pieces first. Aug 27, 2016