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Routes in Main Cliff

A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Aid Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ancient Way T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Angle of the Dangle TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Animal Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ashtray TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
Bald Face Hornet T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Birdman TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Orchid TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bombay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bombay Direct T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Broadway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushy Groove T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cage, The T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Carey Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caroline TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cemetary Vault T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chopper flakes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crag Rat TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Crisis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Cutting Edge T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cygnus X-1 TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deception T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Vision TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Duck Soup TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Easy Rider TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
End Run T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eternity TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Faceout T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
For Madmen Only T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R
Golden Age TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Green Gutter T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Hangnail T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hangover TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hemlock Groove T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hot Rocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Hurricane Gloria T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Jam Corner T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Juniper Wall T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Gambit T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knight's Move T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Kor Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Lavaredo Corner T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Left Edge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Leftover T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Main Street T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Marlinspike T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
May's Way T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
NCS Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Netherlands TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
North End T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North by North West T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Nux Vomica TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Obsession T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Out Of Orbit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Owl Perch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poison and Passion TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pork Barrel Project T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ragged Edge TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Edge T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sandbag TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Side Entry T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sisu T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skull and Bones T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Subline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunday Bulge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swan Song TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sweat Slot T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Terminal Velocity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tower Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trojan Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Un Petit Peu TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unconquerable Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vajolet Corner T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Vanishing Point T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vector T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Visions TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Visitor's Reception Center TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
War Eagle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wet Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Wiessner Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wiessner Slab T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wishbone T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
YMC Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Wiessner, 1935
Page Views: 6,402 total, 45/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

This is the prominant dihedral just right of the Skull and Bones block. Climb through a fist-sized crack to the dihedral and the up the corner to the top.

Protection

Standard Ragged rack
ckersch
  5.8
ckersch  
  5.8
Difficulty feels in line with Broadway and Vector, easier than YMC. I thought this was 5.6 or so up to the ledge, and then 5.8 from there to the top. The ledge detracts from the route, somewhat, since it breaks up the flow of the climbing, and makes falls on the second half a bit more worrisome. Aug 14, 2017
This is at least 5.8. Ultra sandbag if rated 5.7. So good!!! Pumpy, sustained, and interesting. One of my favorite pitches in the northeast. May 23, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
From my few forays to CT climbing areas I've noticed that CT climbers like to sandbag outsiders. In my opinion, as an experienced crack climber from the ADK's, this is probably stout 5.8 versus moderate 5.9 - but who cares - it is an awesome pitch with great gear - so get on it!! And you don't need big gear necessarily. Also several brick-sized loose chockstones in the R crack that someone knocked out and almost hit me! Watch out! Nov 7, 2016
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
I'm not too sure what toproping Dull Goldor into submission has to do with anything(besides spray?) but I've done many easier 5.7s in historically sandbagged areas so I agree with most folks that it deserves at least an 8 at the least. I also kind of agree with bmags that being able to keep its original rating is half the fun but it wouldn't matter much since CT's traprock is hardly more than a one time destination for anyone from out of the area. Jun 5, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
The listed grade is now based on consensus... So in theory it could end up back at 5.7...

mountainproject.com/v/route… Jun 3, 2016
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
  5.7
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
  5.7
Would it be possible to get this listed as a 5.7 again, the sandbag was half the fun Jun 3, 2016
that may be true Mr Mobley, but I onsighted the route and did not FEEL it to be harder than 7+. Its like Unconquerable, if you know how to jam, the route is 5.9, if not, itll feel harder. however that is not fault of the route, but rather the climber. Anyone can avoid the offwidths on Baby or Vector and make the route a 10-12, but that doesn't mean it IS. Also, as with most climbs, the more you work it and dial in the beta, the more itll feel like the suggested grade. Dol Guldor felt incredibly hard upon first trying it. now its my warmup. Whether you choose to lead it or rehearse on TR, that's your own adventure... Jun 2, 2016
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
Its 5.7 to all the locals who TRed it a thousand times before they ever thought of leading it, similar to 5.7s at all the old school crags. the woo, lol. May 26, 2016
Morgan Patterson   CT  
I know Ken's book has it as 7+... not a far stretch to come up with 8- given range of body types. May 24, 2016
I find it interesting watching the suggested grade for this route (and many other classics at ragged and CT) steadily increase over time. Not sure if it’s the influx of new gym climbers, or what, but 5.9 for Carey Corner? Cmon. Just because you lack the specific technical ability to ascend a route casually, doesn’t mean the grade should be changed. Instead, master the technique and you will understand why the grade is what it is. Its like anything else….if you want to excel at a technique or route, you must train for that route. Weissner was an excellent offwidth climber. There are other wide 5.7 cracks in CT that are equally as hard and demanding. Carey Corner climbs exactly the same level of difficulty as many OW climbs in the Woo and the Valley. Which ever way you approach the upper section of Carey, it is 5.7 (ill even say 7+). Sure it may FEEL harder to you, but to suggest that the grade IS harder is a cop-out. May 23, 2016
JRM89
New Haven, CT
  5.9
JRM89   New Haven, CT
  5.9
Just at the very bottom... first few moves. Went back today and was drier! Feb 28, 2016
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
It might be a 5.9 at most places. Where was it wet? Feb 22, 2016
JRM89
New Haven, CT
  5.9
JRM89   New Haven, CT
  5.9
I just bailed on a 5.7. That was embarrassing. I wanted to disappear. Sure it was wet, but a 5.7? Yeah - agreed about this being a bit of a sandbagged rating.... or I suck, or both. :) Feb 21, 2016
FourT6and2
San Francisco, CA
FourT6and2   San Francisco, CA
Climbed this route yesterday. Yeah... it's hard. Really fun. But I cussed and cursed the whole way up haha! The last like... 2 moves—maybe 10 feet from the top—was the hardest part for me. The first half, up to the ledge in the middle, was easy. I don't know if I even want to try it again to get it clean. It was that painful. Aug 28, 2015
The FA's are out of the green book.

I can shoot John Reppy an email and ask. My understanding is that he had talked to Wiessner a found Wiessner had done some of his presumed first ascents.

I placed the entire guide as a comment on the Ragged Mountain page. You'll note that at the time they didn't know about Wiessner's ascent of Vector either. Jun 7, 2012
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.8+
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.8+
I'm not sure where John Peterson got that FA info but it was reported in the 1964 YMC guidebook to be "FA: 1958 J. Reppy and F. Carey." That makes sense since it is called Carey's corner. Jun 7, 2012
David Friend
  5.7+ PG13
David Friend  
  5.7+ PG13
I led this, staying in the crack to place pro. Definitely felt difficult for the grade, especially in the small hands crux near the top. Then my girlfriend flew up it on top rope, using the faces and stemming.

I think the crack is 5.8. If you don't have to place pro and can use the faces, this is 5.7. Jul 18, 2011
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
  5.8
Amazing climb. Absolutely the hardest "5.7" I have ever done. I will give it 5.8, even though I have definitely cruised easier 5.9s.

With that said, this is my favorite climb at Ragged so far. Definitely need some legit crack technique. It'll make you work for it, that's for sure. Saved my #4 for the top, but didn't end up using it. May 20, 2009
Mulligan  
 
So I finally led this clean. After a strong season in Joshua Tree onsighting a couple of the harder 5.10 trad routes I was able to make a redpoint of the infamous Carey Corner. But seriously this thing is way hard. Apr 24, 2009
Mulligan  
 
This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever done. I haven't actually led it clean but the last time I tried was 2 years ago, so Im gonna go back this weekend and try again. Mar 16, 2009
CODJOL  
This is a great 5.7+ climb, perfect for someone who wants a good intro to crack climbing. It does get harder as you go over the ledge about 3/4 of the way up, but is an interesting crack climb after that point because you have two to work with and experiment with. The beginning can be a little bit tricky if your not used to the cracks. Some will try to subvert the crack an look for handholds, but there are only smears out to the sides. Basically, if you get through the first 25 feet, and get a feel for the technique, then you should be able to easily get up the route. Nov 11, 2008
Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
Jim O'Brien   Branford, CT
On the top 5 list of sandbagged climbs, the upper dihedral goes in the 5.8+ range. Oct 31, 2008
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  5.8
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  5.8
This is the hardest 5.7 I have ever climbed, including at the gunks. Jan 30, 2008