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Areas in Central Valley

Bear Rock 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Bradley Mountain 62 / 18 / 35 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 84
Cathole Mountain 23 / 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 30
East Peak 28 / 0 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37
Pinnacle Rock 56 / 0 / 57 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 67
Ragged Mountain 64 / 0 / 43 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 88
Rattlesnake Mountain 50 / 1 / 44 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 59
Short Mountain 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
West Peak 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 440 ft
GPS: 41.63, -72.81 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 226,593 total · 1,779/month
Shared By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description [Edit]

Climbing in Central CT is climbing Traprock! These gorgeous ridge lines have been climbed for decades albeit, with many access issues along the way. The majority of central CT climbing is on private/water company property and is technically illegal. Do your part to help preserve access while climbing in this area, keep a low profile and be smart about your impact and presence. One of the main concerns with climbers is parking along the roads, so be smart.

Traprock Climbing on Google Maps

Traprock areas:
Firewall
Pinnacle Rock
Main Cliff
Rattlesnake Cliff
Orenaug Park
East Peak
Cathole Mountain
Green Wall
Porcupine Wall
The Chin
West Rock State Park
The Garden

Getting There [Edit]

I-91 splits the middle of CT most climbing areas are quickly found <1hour off this highway.

384 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Central Valley

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 75
Wiessner Slab
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 64
First Crack
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 51
Ancient Way
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 68
Wet Wall
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Carey Corner
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
Broadway
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 72
Pegasus
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 57
Wiessner Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 51
Emerald City
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Zambezi Hatchet Head
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Vector
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 67
YMC Route
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 82
Unconquerable Crack
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 29
Cat Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
Subline
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wiessner Slab Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 75
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
First Crack Pinnacle Rock > Cracked Wall
 64
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Ancient Way Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 51
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Wet Wall Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 68
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Carey Corner Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 65
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Broadway Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 99
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Pegasus Cathole Mtn > Main Walls
 72
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Wiessner Crack Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 57
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Emerald City Pinnacle Rock > Emerald City Slab
 51
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zambezi Hatchet Head Pinnacle Rock > Right Wing Wall
 50
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Vector Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 55
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
YMC Route Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 67
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unconquerable Crack Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 82
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Cat Crack E Peak > Amphitheater
 29
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Subline Ragged Mtn > Main Cliff
 31
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Central Valley »

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Photos

Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
John,

Thanks for adding Ragged Mountain. Hope you will contribute some routes to the Gunks as well!

FYI -- Fritz's name is spelled Wiessner (i before e). Feb 22, 2006
After getting chewed out by Sam Streibert for misspelling his name my i and e are permanently reversed. Feb 27, 2006
Eastvillage
New York, NY
Eastvillage   New York, NY
Nice to see Connecticut on this site. However, climbers new to the area should know that most of the classic lines on the major crags SHOULD be led. As mentioned before, CT has a long climbing history and that history was written on the lead. Yes it's strenuous etc., but that's what makes CT climbing so great.
Mar 19, 2006
john gilchrist
sLC, utah
john gilchrist   sLC, utah
heck yah Ct climbing is fun worth a trip May 9, 2006
Morgan Patterson   CT  
And apparently, a lot of CT history was unfortunately written on Top Rope too... Aug 3, 2012
Dmadison
Logan, UT
Dmadison   Logan, UT
This is a very vague and general question but I was wondering if a majority of the routes in the Central traprock area require being led on gear? I don't want to show up at a crag and not be able to climb anything considering I don't lead trad (yet). May 5, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
HA! Most folks in CT TR the crap outta traprock with an occasional lead. May 7, 2013
J.R. Berry
SCL utahl
J.R. Berry   SCL utahl
Hey Ya'll visiting this area for a very Spooky Halloween weekend climbing trip, is there any camping near by someone would recommend ?! Oct 15, 2015

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