Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Mike Heinz, Tony Trocchi, 1975
Page Views: 8,602 total · 55/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Open with restrictions - Private Property Details


This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.

Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling to lessen rope drag.

Approach from the Metacomet trail. A gully on the south side gives access from the trail.

This can be toproped but a fall from under the crux overhang generates a very wild swing into space.


Bring some big stuff (#4, #5 camalot) if you want to lead this. Doubles of the bigs might be nice, mainly to keep the rope off of the first one as you turn the massive corners.
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
Best 5.9 in CT. May 28, 2010
Santa Clarita, CA
FooDawg   Santa Clarita, CA
Really a great climb. We toproped it and the swing from the crux was nothing to fear too badly. The route is solid. Finding it from the top was a pain, think there should be a marking somewhere at top to denote anchor placement for TRing.

Recommend rappeling to the bottom because hiking it is the suck lol.

Nov 2, 2010
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
its funny how CT climbing has many classic climbs with no trail to the base of the climb. it is a loose, chossy bushwack to the base of this true classic. Nov 2, 2010
jason malczyk
General Delivery
jason malczyk   General Delivery
A 60 meter rope doubled up (30 meter rap) made it to the bottom but watch your ends. There is a great pine tree to set a anchor off that you rap in lookers left of the route, bring some extra webbing if top roping to get over the edge. Best land mark is the rock outcrop that makes up the stair step roofs. Raping in is easy hiking in is hard. No bolts needed on this classic. Mar 11, 2011
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
Keep yourself and your rope out of the POISON IVY at base! Sep 24, 2012
Wakefield, RI
Ksween   Wakefield, RI
Followed this today. The jug moving out of the squeeze just above the second roof is covered in bird poop. Copius amounts of poop. Sooo much poop. You will be breathing it and wearing it. Bring a powerwasher, or a mask. Nov 24, 2012
Andrei Patricio
Lowell, MA
Andrei Patricio   Lowell, MA
Yes. Doubles of 4s and 5s would make the route super safe. Great route. November 8 and the weather was perfect. NE classic. Nov 9, 2014
Best way to find this route is look at the fourth picture provided up top. That rock on the nice lower ramp. Remember it. The white spray paint above it. That white paint is covering nasty tags left by retards some time ago. Walk down the blue blaze trail to you get to this large gully. Seven minutes from top of blue blaze trail coming from the parking lot. Cross the gully walk the cliff. The first arete after the gully in the right corner isn't it. Down a hundred ft further. Use that fourth picture for reference. Dec 20, 2017
J Gills
J Gills  
Amazing climbing on splitter rock!

Very much recommend rapping in rather than bushwhacking to the base. Also suggest stopping at the bottom of the splitter corner on a sloping ledge (build an anchor) rather than rapping all the way to the bottom. This avoids the poison ivy bushes and the dirty, chossy section. Needless to say we did not do these things. Oct 5, 2018