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Routes in Merimere Face

Lightening Strike TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Thor's Hammer T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thunder Bolt Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: Mike Heinz, Tony Trocchi, 1975
Page Views: 7,768 total, 54/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

This route ascends the obvious stairstep dihedral on the Merimere Face. A Connecticut classic. Although obvious from the road below, this is somewhat tricky to find when approaching from the blue trail from the parking lot at the castle. Be sure to look at the landmarks around the climb as you drive up.

Climb the relatively easy corner to the first roof, undercling left (crux), and continue up a wide crack through another smaller roof to the top. A belay can be set after the first undercling to lessen rope drag.

Approach from the Metacomet trail. A gully on the south side gives access from the trail.

This can be toproped but a fall from under the crux overhang generates a very wild swing into space.

Protection

Bring some big stuff (#4, #5 camalot) if you want to lead this. Doubles of the bigs might be nice, mainly to keep the rope off of the first one as you turn the massive corners.



Andrei  
Yes. Doubles of 4s and 5s would make the route super safe. Great route. November 8 and the weather was perfect. NE classic. Nov 9, 2014
Ksween
Wakefield, RI
Ksween   Wakefield, RI
Followed this today. The jug moving out of the squeeze just above the second roof is covered in bird poop. Copius amounts of poop. Sooo much poop. You will be breathing it and wearing it. Bring a powerwasher, or a mask. Nov 24, 2012
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Keep yourself and your rope out of the POISON IVY at base! Sep 24, 2012
jason malczyk
General Delivery
  5.9
jason malczyk   General Delivery
  5.9
A 60 meter rope doubled up (30 meter rap) made it to the bottom but watch your ends. There is a great pine tree to set a anchor off that you rap in lookers left of the route, bring some extra webbing if top roping to get over the edge. Best land mark is the rock outcrop that makes up the stair step roofs. Raping in is easy hiking in is hard. No bolts needed on this classic. Mar 11, 2011
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
its funny how CT climbing has many classic climbs with no trail to the base of the climb. it is a loose, chossy bushwack to the base of this true classic. Nov 2, 2010
FooDawg
New Haven, CT
  5.9
FooDawg   New Haven, CT
  5.9
Really a great climb. We toproped it and the swing from the crux was nothing to fear too badly. The route is solid. Finding it from the top was a pain, think there should be a marking somewhere at top to denote anchor placement for TRing.

Recommend rappeling to the bottom because hiking it is the suck lol.

Nov 2, 2010
jackkelly00
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
Best 5.9 in CT. May 28, 2010