Connecticut Climbing

Climbing in Connecticut dates back before the 1930s when college outing clubs such as the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Appalachian Mountain Club were on the edge of exploring these wild places to climb. The state is rich with classics, put up by legends such as Fritz Wiessner, John Reppy, Sam Streibert, Layton Kor, Henry Barber, and many other local heroes pushing the limits of free climbing.

The state's Central region boasts the Traprock Ridge, which contains gems like Ragged Mountain Main Cliff, East Peak, Pinnacle, Cat Hole, and many smaller areas. This area also has great potential for bouldering near the climbing areas. The rock is basalt, a volcanic rock from eons ago. The texture is somewhat smooth, similar to bullet sandstone, but the sharp edges and unique features offer a distinct feel to the rock. There are as many face climbs as there are limited crack systems to climb in the area; perfect splitters are few and usually rounded off, making for some interesting climbing.

The South Central region of Connecticut along the shoreline offers plenty of climbing opportunities. Most notable is Chatfield Hollow in Killingworth. The short approach, easy parking on state land, and a wide range of climbs, although few compared to the mid-state traprock, make this a favorite quick-fix destination for area climbers. You are treated to some high-quality granitic gneiss here, overhanging faces and great cracks, well worth a visit if you're in the area.

Bouldering can be found everywhere in Connecticut; glacial erratic boulders are strewn across the state thanks to the second ice age. Mystic, Haddam, West Hartford, New Haven, and Fairfield County offer notable bouldering areas. Hammonasset State Park even has camping facilities in a state beach park with some bouldering on the shore.  The best bouldering in the state is found in the North West corner around New Milford, Kent, and Torrington. However, much of this is extremely access sensitive, leaving it unpublished and undocumented.

Climbing in Connecticut is awesome; even though we do not have the sweeping ridge lines of some of our western neighbors, the character of the climbing makes up for any lack of height. Crag height ranges from about 110 feet to 30-foot power climbs. The grading here seems stiff to some (aka Sandbagged); many classics have been up since the 1930's when a 5.7 was cutting edge! Many climbers find that the trad leads can be quite exhilarating, be warned that fixed protection is not always a given due to a tumultuous history in the state, so be ready for some surprises and don't trust any descriptions listing fixed gear in guidebooks.

There is only one guidebook in print, The Falcon Guide- Rock Climbing Connecticut by David Fasulo. However, several other guidebooks have been published by the American Alpine Club, the Ragged Mountain Foundation, and past Climbers, which are out of print.

If anything, remember that climbing is a time to enjoy the outdoors and nature.  Always be stewards of the land that we share.  Pick up any trash you see, respect wildlife, and encourage others to do the same.