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Routes in The Chin

Defender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frenchman's Cap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhadamanthus T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rhadamanthus Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Warehouse Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wiessner's Rib 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yvette T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: , 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Wiessner, 1930s
Page Views: 8,117 total · 54/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 25, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Fritz Wiessner had a good eye for the classic climbs. The start of this climb can be found by heading straight up from the intersection of the main (Tower) trail and the white trail. After hiking up to the base of the rib, walk right and up to a ledge at the base of the route; step left to belay away from the poison ivy. On the left side of the ledge is a dihedral system. Follow this up about 25 feet to a ledge. Step right across a small slab and climb easily to an obvious dihedral. Layback past a blank spot (crux) and either climb a short slanting crack on the left or climb more easily on the right to a big ledge. 65', 5.6. This ledge can also be reached easily from the left.

Directly above an ancient bolt is easy to see. This is "Bolted", an alternate finish at 5.8+. The second pitch works right (ignoring the bolt) and then follows a left facing dihedral. At an old pin (now useless), a long step left avoids a hard spot. Easier climbing leads to the top. 40'. 5.5 (harder if shorter).

One of the best 5.6 routes in Connecticut.

Protection [Suggest Change]

This route is well protected with wires and a few larger cams.
T Roper
Chosstown
 
T Roper   Chosstown
 
sweet climb considering the choss factor of most of the cliff. safe lead. Jun 18, 2008
Eric  
Shockingly solid for how crappy the rest of the cliff looks. The crux slab dihedral is well protected and very fun, although unfortunately it's over before you know it.

Climbed it right before Christmas this year- it's nice to not have to wade through all the poison ivy to get to the start! Mar 14, 2010
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
CTdave   Victor, Id.
 
Safe to lead for sure. Solid rock all around. One of the sweetest tasting 5.6's you'll find in CT. Sep 6, 2013
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
about as good as it gets for 5.6 in CT. There's a dead bird at the beginning of pitch 2. Sadness. Apr 13, 2015
czd
czd  
Bolted is at least R rated. The bolt is terrible and the gear afterwards is so-so. May 13, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
 
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
 
FYI - 60 gets you down to belay ledge with UNTIED knots. Buyer beware... Aug 1, 2015
Is it possible to top rope this route or is it strictly trad climbing? Apr 18, 2016
You can certainly top rope this but you would have to hunt around a little to find the right spot on top. The abundance of poison ivy at the base makes it less desirable to hang around there or throw a rope down from the top. I've lowered people from the top to the little ledge above the poison ivy and had them climb from there but I've never set this as a normal toprope. Apr 18, 2016
Eddie Eseppi  
 
Definitely one of the best 5.6 climbs in Connecticut. As stated, super safe lead. Little bit of an awkward move to go right on top of the first dihedral, but not bad. Second pitch was super fun. Carrying gear in a backpack will reduce the staring on the approach. May 29, 2016
adkeditor Brown
Saranac Lake, NY
adkeditor Brown   Saranac Lake, NY
I climbed Wiessner's Rib a week ago. A lot of variety packed into 100 feet. I wrote a short article on the climb for Adirondack Almanack, which can be found here. adirondackalmanack.com/2016… Nov 6, 2016
Will Cutrone
Wallingford, CT
Will Cutrone   Wallingford, CT
Awesome route and for sure of the best 5.6's in CT. Being a climber who attends Quinnipiac across the street, I frequently lead it and it never gets old Dec 6, 2016

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