Elevation: 467 ft
GPS: 41.426, -72.898 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: wivanoff on Feb 25, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

The Chin is the most obvious and well known climbing area in Sleeping Giant. It has an old climbing history dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. This was the premier climbing area for local AMC and Yale Mountaineering groups for many years until the accident in 1953.

The Chin is the location of the first girdle traverse ever done in this country. It is also one of, if not the first place, that nuts were used for protection in the USA. Apparently, John Reppy brought back the new-fangled idea from a trip to the UK.

David Hurrah published the first known guidebook which was a collection of “potential” routes that he saw as he walked along the base of the Chin. I don't know the publication date but I recall seeing a mimeographed copy at the old Ski hut in New Haven in the early 1970s.

The Chin contains some enjoyable routes put up by the likes of Hassler and Roger Whitney, Fritz Wiessner, Jim Adair, John Reppy and Sam Streibert. The cliff faces east and gets great early morning sun.

Recommended routes include:
Wiessner’s Rib (5.6), Yvette (5.9), Frenchman’s Cap (5.9), Defender (5.11), Bolted (5.9), and Rhadamanthus (5.10). There is even a 600-foot right to left traverse of the cliff, The Warehouse Run (5.7), put up in 1934.

Do not trust any fixed protection here as it is probably 70 years old! Rock is very abrasive but can be loose, and poison ivy is abundant.

Approach the Chin via the main trail from the parking lot. A 10 - 15 minute hike gets you to the talus at the base of the cliff. Descend by the blue trail which runs across the top of the crag.

Getting There

Directions to this area can be found at the state park website: Sleeping Giant

12 Total Climbs

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Location: The Chin Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Chin

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 59
Wiessner's Rib
2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 4
Bolted
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Frenchman's Cap
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 22
Yvette
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 5
Rhadamanthus
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wiessner's Rib
 59
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 2 pitches
Bolted
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Frenchman's Cap
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yvette
 22
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Rhadamanthus
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in The Chin »

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