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Areas in Western Coastal Slope

Bald Rock Basin 5 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Devil's Glen 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Great Ledge 8 / 0 / 11 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16
Huntington State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Laddin's Rock 8 / 1 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Naugatuck State Forest 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Old Mine Park 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pequonnock River Valley State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Roadside Crag 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sleeping Giant State Park 23 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Twin Brooks Park 5 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Ward St. "Gritstone" Crag, Norwalk 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Webb Mountain Park 3 / 0 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
West Rock State Park 6 / 29 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 35
Wooster Mountain State Park 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 419 ft
GPS: 41.348, -73.256 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 74,400 total · 599/month
Shared By: Ladd on Dec 10, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

Climbing in this part of the state is difficult was find until sites like MountainProject.com came around. Now it's a little less difficult but there are many issues and few good crags. Given the long history of climbing in CT and the dense population, this area of CT has many little areas spread around which have been explored and climbed by many of the best climbers of their time. As such, there is very little which has not already been climbed at one point or another in established areas unless you are climbing at the highest levels of the sport. Get out have some fun and remember... be discrete!

Getting There

I-95 and I-695 provide access with many other roads all heading towards "The City" (Read: New York City)

111 Total Climbs

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Location: Western Coastal Slope Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Western Coastal Slope

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wiessner's Rib
2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.6 (2)
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Tax Evasion Haven
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel And Dime
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
That 70 Show
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackrock Corner
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Psychonautics
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Happiness Is a Warm Drill
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Yvette
Trad
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
The People's Rock
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Ground Effect
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
West Rock Crack
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slightly Removed
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Tree of Life
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Late For Supper
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wiessner's Rib Sleeping Giant SP > Chin
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 2 pitches
5.6 (2) Great Ledge > Main Face
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Tax Evasion Haven W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Nickel And Dime W Rock SP > S Buttress > Ball Field Slabs
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
That 70 Show W Rock SP > S Buttress > Ball Field Slabs
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Crackrock Corner W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Psychonautics W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happiness Is a Warm Drill W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Yvette Sleeping Giant SP > Chin
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
The People's Rock W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Ground Effect Great Ledge > Main Face
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad, TR
West Rock Crack W Rock SP > S Buttress > Ball Field Slabs
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Slightly Removed W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Tree of Life W Rock SP > S Buttress > Old Quarry Walls
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Late For Supper Great Ledge > Main Face
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
More Classic Climbs in Western Coastal Slope »

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Photos

Morgan or Ladd(?)cautions climbers to be discreet. An excellent word!
I've had some success by asking for permission to cross private property.
Parking can be the biggest hassle.
Your milage may vary.

As to finding un-climbed stone? Of course there is lots.
The old school climbers from the 1940s on where routine climbers
That is they returned to the same location, over and over again.
as opposed to looking for new rock. If you find fresh stone it is obvious.

If you are trying to find the best rock do your ground work.
Meet the locals, be polite.

Stay in small groups of two.
Explain before you climb that you will want to come back.
If there is any resistance drop the idea of climbing.


In this State you have to ask for permission,
if you can take a walk, don't blow it by climbing.
Include the locals in the process by showing them pictures
of what you want to come back to try and climb.
If you have spectators, top rope.
(TR just looks like it is safer, to the general public.)


There is lots of rock that Morgan must be keeping track of.
I'm not keeping a book, or adding areas to this data base.
One could but the result would be the closing of many great areas.
If you are interested in seeing some of the rock in south western CT,
get in touch with me. Sep 3, 2016

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