All Locations > Connecticut > Western Coastal Slope

Roadside Crag Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Roadside Crag

Big Wall 4 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Short Stack 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

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Elevation:	475 ft	145 m
GPS:	41.2633, -73.375 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	6,262 total · 31/month
Shared By:	Matthew Swartz on Oct 17, 2009
Admins:	Morgan Patterson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Public Access by Permit Only Details

This area is Public Access by Permit Only and the permit is available for download: ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/statepar…. Please note climbing is not allowed on the Centennial Watershed State Forest, owned by the Aquarion Water Company or the Devils Den Preserve, owned by the Nature Conservancy. This cliff appears to be located in the C.W. State Forest. Climbing has been tolerated at this cliff but you could be asked to leave. Parking lots along Newton Turnpike (Rt. 53) close at sundown .

Description

This is the East-facing crag located just South of the Resevoir (which is South-East of the town of Redding) by Newtown Turnpike. This is a wooded crag with routes in the 30-60ft length right near the road. The rock is good quality but does not see very much traffic and can be slightly dirty in some areas.

This area suffers from a poor selection of options for anchors at the top. Ideally someone would put in some bolts. The vegetation (small mountain laurel trees and shrubs) is sketchy at best for TR anchors and getting good gear is not easy. Until bolts are installed your best bet for setting up a toprope is lots of webbing or static line...like 40ft or so.

Getting There

From route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and go North on Weston Road. This becomes Newtown Turnpike - follow this towards Redding. The crag will be on your left - look for it and park at one of the parking areas just before the reservoir.