Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FFA: Leif Peterson
Page Views: 2,456 total · 39/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 8, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The finest legal crack in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack.

Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck.

Protection

Gear to 1"

Photos

Mobes Mobesely   MDI
 
the anchor is fine considering you can rest and place gear before running it to the anchor Oct 11, 2013
Morgan Patterson
CT
  5.11
Morgan Patterson   CT  
  5.11
I need to get some slippers Oct 11, 2013
Dan Griffiths
Denver, CO
Dan Griffiths   Denver, CO
The start from the deck is hard. Possibly upper 12 range, but I've never seen anyone do it. However, someone with skinny little fingers will cruise it with nice little finger locks. From the block to the left, the first couple moves are every bit of 10+, probably more like 11a/b...and the pro is real small there. Oct 21, 2013
Leif  
I sent the direct start to this a couple years ago. Protected the first moves by stacking some itty bittys. It is strenuous. 5.11 maybe but only for a couple moves. Fun route! Apr 6, 2014
Jay Stanley
Little Rock, AR
Jay Stanley   Little Rock, AR
can you aid this without mandatory free climbing? May 7, 2018
m russi
New Haven, CT
m russi   New Haven, CT
@Jay Stanley I feel confident this would go at C1/2 with a bunch of RPs, ballnuts, and maybe a camhook, but I haven't tried it. The cliff is open to climbing. Nov 5, 2018