For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Ball Field Slabs

30 Seconds to All Night S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Amalgamator S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drill Wavin' New Haven S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kinesthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monarch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel And Dime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sheetz of Wrath TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
That 70 Show T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wedding route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rock Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FFA: Leif Peterson
Page Views: 2,230 total · 39/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 8, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: URGENT - PEREGRINE NESTING - DO NOT CLIMB AT THE SLABS UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The finest legal crack in New Haven. Start on the deck and fire the crack (Ball Nuts/micro placements/stacked nutz) straight through to the top. When the crack fades work some moves over/up to the anchor. Originally, ATX Aid Crack.

Easier Variation: Known as the 10 Crack is the obvious beautiful crack that splits the large slab face to the right of That 70's Show. From the ledge, stand on the block to the left and work right into the crack several feet off the deck.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Gear to 1"

Photos

T Roper
Chosstown
 
T Roper   Chosstown
 
the anchor is fine considering you can rest and place gear before running it to the anchor Oct 11, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
I need to get some slippers Oct 11, 2013
The start from the deck is hard. Possibly upper 12 range, but I've never seen anyone do it. However, someone with skinny little fingers will cruise it with nice little finger locks. From the block to the left, the first couple moves are every bit of 10+, probably more like 11a/b...and the pro is real small there. Oct 21, 2013
Leif  
I sent the direct start to this a couple years ago. Protected the first moves by stacking some itty bittys. It is strenuous. 5.11 maybe but only for a couple moves. Fun route! Apr 6, 2014
can you aid this without mandatory free climbing? May 7, 2018
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
No - The cliff has been closed by the State. You cannot aid or free climb at this time. Sorry... May 9, 2018

More About West Rock Crack

Printer-Friendly