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Elevation: 552 ft
GPS: 41.355, -73.469 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 687 total, 9/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Dec 7, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description

Moses mountain located 2 miles north of the intersection of Rt. 7 and Rt. 35 contains a large eratic with some overhanging problems as well as a sizeable cliff which would require some cleaning but could be a good sport cliff for afternoons. The climbing here has not been developed but looks promising.

Getting There

Park at the Wooster Mnt. State Park, cross Rt. 7 and walk towards Danbury. A steep hillside with lots of scree will break away from the road after about 1/4 mile. Follow this hillside into the woods and you will begin to see the boulder and beyond that the cliff line.

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Photos

THE RAVENS CREST AT SUGAR HOLLOW
.


You can see the main block from the highway(Rt7)
there is a Parking-lot (across from the road cut) On The Same Side of the Highway As The Cliff,
do not park in the 'Gun Range' Lot & try to cross the highway.
(There is more rock on 'that' side, too.)


The Ives Trail (that can be short cut) or used to go to the top, is a few steps into the woods,
at the back of the lot. follow yellow blazes/Ives trail markers.



there are More than 35, short climbs (65+ Feet high)
Many of the 20 footers have been sent. There are more climbs on the walls up hill, as well..
There is a large two tier nest, that is active please don't clean it off the ledges.
Climbs from 4th class to 5.12,( there are more climbs to be done)
Some Good gear routes in the 5.10 range as well as TR's


As with all un-visited rock
there is loose and fri-able rock.There is quality there,
sometimes under dirt, and some crusty fresh exfoliation.
There is minimal chalk, there is minimal to no need for chalk.
I Followed very strong old school CT attitudes in developing climbs.
Using a very light touch, cleaning as little as needed as possible,
-don't touch loose stuff-
.
Please: Leave NO TRACE.


There was a lightning strike and fire, (7/15) that changed the soil permeability
causing seepage & reducing the tree- anchoring options,static line, long cords/slings are a good plan..


be careful if you climb into the 'Womb', (still a recommended 5.7)
wet footing & walls are now the normal conditions.


I have been climbing here for almost 20yrs,
climbs go on gear up to 5.11 , pre-place the gear on the 5.12s,
Top Ropes may need a point of pro. or 2 ,for 'directionals',
(to help reduced swing & for safe climbing)
I have often left built anchors, & stashed rope,
(Use@own Risk & are Not booty)
please, leave these alone Feb 19, 2017

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