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Routes in Main Face

5.6 (1) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.6 (2) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Buttermilk Delight T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cutting Board TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dihedral, The T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Effect T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Late For Supper TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Right Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Satan's Ceiling T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 5.10 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown Name TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 958 total, 12/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Jun 14, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Climb Center line below roof. Up 15 ft on jugs to a small roof, pull move over small roof then up and right along seam to roof. Traverse left 5 ft to seam in roof. Reach out to notch grab on, hold swing, then pull difficult move over lip to anchors.

Location

Center line up big roof.

Protection

TR/Rap Anchors (bent and smashed with hammer)

Photos

christian mcconnell
Stamford, Connecticut
christian mcconnell   Stamford, Connecticut
Both hammered bolts on Satans roof found on ground today. Jul 8, 2012
I led this back in '84. We used to clip the pin at the end of the seam with a screamer or other load limiting device. Pin must be pretty nasty by now, if it is still there.
When TR'ing this, it's a good idea to use a back rope to limit the huge swing, and even ground fall potential if a weaker climber were to pop off early. This way you can actually work it without having to re-climb the entire route when you swing from the lip. The way I've set it, set the TR, then climb up the lower face and place a couple of cams below the first roof, clipping the second rope to these. the second rope can be left pretty loose once the climber gets up to the the final roof. If they pop then the second rope will allow them to tension back to the ledge halfway up. Apr 6, 2012
I remember that pulling the top roof was always a bit of a dirt crux..otherwise this is a great pitch. Good gear in roof itself right next to the pin(if it's still there). This was good training for Foops when you could still climb it. Last time we did it (about 15 years ago)there was a bat living in a crack near the lower overhang. What's up with the graffiti?
Scott from Norwalk
Mar 3, 2012
Will Starks
  5.11-
Will Starks  
  5.11-
This route has been led and is named Satan's Ceiling. It has traditionally been rated 5.10d but I'll concede that pulling the roof feels harder than that. Jul 29, 2011