Elevation: 128 ft
GPS: 41.332, -72.959 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,466 total · 423/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Nov 25, 2013 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Morgan Patterson
Access Issue: Raptor Closing on Ballfield Slabs Details

Description

This area was mostly used as a homeless camp but that could be changing... Behind the homeless camp, through some razor sharp thorns and a behind a wall of poison ivy (clearly from the Jurassic Period), lies the remnants of a quarry operation on the South End.

The Old Quarry Walls at West Rock is the most up and coming sport crag in CT. This area was until recently used as a homeless camp, overrun with Poison Ivy and thorns, but thanks to a dedicated few it has been cleaned up. Countless hours have been spent removing poison ivy vines and trundling loose death blocks. While most the walls are shorter, they are varied with more vertical and overhanging sections then the Ballfield Slabs and offers some great hard climbing with lots more potential at the small urban crag.

Use caution however when climbing here as this is a new area still under development and there is still a lot of choss. Also note that on specific routes bolt spacing can be thin, these routes have been designated as R rated.

The best, most solid lines are on the far left wall including Tree of Life and People's Rock. This portion of the wall is in the sun the least throughout the day. The middle, and tallest section of the wall is the most dangerous with the most loose rock. There are no established lines here (yet). The obvious prominent arete is Desparate with a few lines in that area including Devil's cut. The far right developed part of the wall is the Crackrock corner which is home to the first bolted lines in the quarry, back when you had to wash everything you brought with you for fear of poison Ivy contaminating everything.

Getting There

Instead of hiking up from the ball field and taking the second switchback back left along the base of the main slabs, continue hiking straight along the trail about 30 ft. Then head up over a small berm and into the homeless camp. Continue straight back from here to the walls. One can also follow the trail to the top and scramble to the top of the climbs and setup TR's.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Quarry Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 4
Snakeskin Souvenir
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 36
Tax Evasion Haven
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Crackrock Corner
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Psychonautics
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 52
Happiness Is a Warm Drill
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Cloud Surfing
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 39
The People's Rock
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 29
Slightly Removed
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 4
Evil Beauty
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 17
The Tree of Life
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
Scifentology
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Run For Cover
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Winning and Losing
Sport, TR
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Cloud Surfari
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 5
Desparête  
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snakeskin Souvenir
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Tax Evasion Haven
 36
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Crackrock Corner
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Psychonautics
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happiness Is a Warm Drill
 52
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Cloud Surfing
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The People's Rock
 39
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Slightly Removed
 29
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Evil Beauty
 4
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
The Tree of Life
 17
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Scifentology
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Run For Cover
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Winning and Losing
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, TR
Cloud Surfari
 5
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Desparête  
 5
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
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