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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elevation: 129 ft
GPS: 41.332, -72.959 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Nov 25, 2013 with updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description

This area was mostly used as a homeless camp but that could be changing... Behind the homeless camp, through some razor sharp thorns and a behind a wall of poison ivy (clearly from the Jurassic Period), lies the remnants of a quarry operation on the South End.

The Old Quarry Walls at West Rock is the most up and coming sport crag in CT. This area was until recently used as a homeless camp, overrun with Poison Ivy and thorns, but thanks to a dedicated few it has been cleaned up. Countless hours have been spent removing poison ivy vines and trundling loose death blocks. While most the walls are shorter, they are varied with more vertical and overhanging sections then the Ballfield Slabs and offers some great hard climbing with lots more potential at the small urban crag.

Use caution however when climbing here as this is a new area still under development and there is still a lot of choss. Also note that on specific routes bolt spacing can be thin, these routes have been designated as R rated.

The best, most solid lines are on the far left wall including Tree of Life and People's Rock. This portion of the wall is in the sun the least throughout the day. The middle, and tallest section of the wall is the most dangerous with the most loose rock. There are no established lines here (yet). The obvious prominent arete is Desparate with a few lines in that area including Devil's cut. The far right developed part of the wall is the Crackrock corner which is home to the first bolted lines in the quarry, back when you had to wash everything you brought with you for fear of poison Ivy contaminating everything.

Getting There

Instead of hiking up from the ball field and taking the second switchback back left along the base of the main slabs, continue hiking straight along the trail about 30 ft. Then head up over a small berm and into the homeless camp. Continue straight back from here to the walls. One can also follow the trail to the top and scramble to the top of the climbs and setup TR's.

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Quarry Walls

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Morgan Patterson   CT  
nope... but im sure there's some dry stuff esp the aretes. Mar 17, 2015
czd
czd  
These routes all look great. Good addition to New Haven sport climbing. Nov 9, 2014
Great little zone. Much more potential here for sure. I took out three garbage bags of trash today and it looks great. Definitely one of those places where more climbers visiting will make it better. Oct 13, 2014

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