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Elevation: 128 ft
GPS: 41.33236, -72.95851
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Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Nov 25, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Morgan Patterson
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closing on Ballfield Slabs. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area was mostly used as a homeless camp but that has changed... Behind what was once a homeless camp, through some razor sharp thorns and a behind a wall of poison ivy (clearly from the Jurassic Period), lies the remnants of a quarry operation on the South End.

The Old Quarry Walls at West Rock is the most up and coming sport crag in CT. This area was until recently used as a homeless camp, overrun with Poison Ivy and thorns, but thanks to a dedicated few it has been cleaned up. Countless hours have been spent removing poison ivy vines and trundling loose death blocks. While most the walls are shorter, they are varied with more vertical and overhanging sections then the Ballfield Slabs and offers some great hard climbing with lots more potential at the small urban crag.

Use caution however when climbing here as this is a new area still under development and there is still a lot of choss. Also note that on specific routes bolt spacing can be thin, these routes have been designated as R rated.

The best, most solid lines are on the far left wall including Tree of Life and People's Rock. This portion of the wall is in the sun the least throughout the day. The middle, and tallest section of the wall is the most dangerous with the most loose rock. There are no established lines here (yet). The obvious prominent arete is Desparate with a few lines in that area including Devil's cut. The far right developed part of the wall is the Crackrock corner which is home to the first bolted lines in the quarry, back when you had to wash everything you brought with you for fear of poison Ivy contaminating everything.

THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.

Getting There Suggest change

Instead of hiking up from the ball field and taking the second switchback back left along the base of the main slabs, continue hiking straight along the trail about 30 ft. Then head up over a small berm and into the homeless camp. Continue straight back from here to the walls. One can also follow the trail to the top and scramble to the top of the climbs and setup TR's.

26 Total Climbs

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Location: Old Quarry Walls Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Quarry Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
AlGoreRhythm
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 51
Crackrock Corner
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 57
Psychonautics
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 74
Happiness Is a Warm Drill (CAUTI…
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 55
Tax Evasion Haven
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 31
Cloud Surfing
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 57
The People's Rock
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 39
Slightly Removed
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 28
The Tree of Life
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 6
The Tree of Knowledge
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 11
Scifentology
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Run For Cover
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Tasmanian Pain Coaster
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 6
Winning and Losing
Sport, TR
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 7
Desparête  
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
AlGoreRhythm
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Crackrock Corner
 51
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Psychonautics
 57
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happiness Is a Warm Drill (…
 74
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Tax Evasion Haven
 55
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Cloud Surfing
 31
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The People's Rock
 57
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Slightly Removed
 39
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Tree of Life
 28
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Tree of Knowledge
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Scifentology
 11
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Run For Cover
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Tasmanian Pain Coaster
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Winning and Losing
 6
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport, TR
Desparête  
 7
5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c Sport
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