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Areas in Sleeping Giant State Park

Chin, The 7 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Right Knee 10 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Tower Area 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 522 ft
GPS: 41.426, -72.899 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,842 total · 468/month
Shared By: wivanoff on Mar 8, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description

Park is temporarily CLOSED due to storm damage. Please adhere to closures. No Trespassing signs have been posted May 2018

Sleeping Giant is a Connecticut state park just north of New Haven, next to Quinnipiac University.

Sleeping Giant was THE climbing area in CT until an accident in 1953 closed the cliff for decades. The Giant is now back in business and offers many different areas for climbing.

The most obvious area is the "Chin" but other crags are found scattered around the park. The Tower Area (left knee just below the tower) has a number of good routes to 50' and also features a small free-standing pillar. There are many small outcrops with decent bouldering scattered throughout the park.

The park contains some enjoyable routes put up by the likes of Hassler and Roger Whitney, Fritz Wiessner, Jim Adair, John Reppy and Sam Streibert.

Do not trust any fixed protection here as it is probably 70 years old! Rock can be loose, and poison ivy is abundant.

Camping is not allowed. The park is open from 8:00 AM until sunset. Parking fees are in effect weekends and holidays from Memorial Day weekend through the end of October.

Getting There

Located in Hamden CT. Take Route 10 to Mt. Carmel Avenue. The park entrance is on the left across from Quinnipiac University.

Directions to this area can be found at the state park website, dep.state.ct.us/stateparks/…

A trail map can be found here: sgpa.org/colormap.pdf

Check the RMF website, raggedmtn.org, for more information about this crag.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Sleeping Giant State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 35
Wiessner's Rib
2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Frenchman's Cap
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 16
Yvette
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 3
Rhadamanthus
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wiessner's Rib Chin
 35
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 2 pitches
Frenchman's Cap Chin
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yvette Chin
 16
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Rhadamanthus Chin
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, TR
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Photos

Due to the tornados that hit Hamden CT, Sleeping Giant State Park will be closed, assumptions are at least until Fall 2018. The devastation is insane, and there will be no access to any climbing sites (this isn't a lame rule cause of a few widowmakers, you literally could not get to the climbing areas if you tried). The Sleeping Giant Park Association (can be found on facebook) will have updates as to when the park with re-open. May 26, 2018

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