For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Areas in South Buttress

Ball Field Slabs 4 / 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Old Quarry Walls 0 / 22 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Overlook Routes 2 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 181 ft
GPS: 41.332, -72.96 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 30,485 total · 530/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 4, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson
Getting weather forecast...
Access Issue: DO NOT CLIMB HERE UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE!! Peregrine Falcon nesting in progress & State is closing crg Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The South End hosts the majority of the recent development at West Rock SP with some very classy off angle traditional, mixed, and multi-pitch routes. The fixed protection can be spaced on easier sections of climbs and there may be some run-outs. Be VERY careful of loose rock, a lot has been done to clean the routes but this is still a major issue in this area.

THESE ARE NOT YOUR TYPICAL SPORT ROUTES. THESE ROUTES CAN BE DANGEROUS! BOLT SPACING CAN BE SPARSE DUE TO LACK OF SOLID ROCK. AN UNEXPECTED FALL COULD RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. THERE IS A SIGNIFICANT RISK OF BLOCKS DISLODGING AND A POTENTIAL FOR FIXED GEAR TO FAIL.

ALWAYS WEAR YOUR HELMET HERE!

A 70 METER ROPE IS REQUIRED FOR SOME BALLFIELD ROUTES!

Getting There [Suggest Change]

Hike up from field, along path uphill and right. Follow trail back left along base of cliff for 100 or so feet to the climbers trail heading up right to the 4th class scramble.

35 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: South Buttress Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at South Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 25
Tax Evasion Haven
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 31
Nickel And Dime
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
That 70 Show
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Crackrock Corner
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 19
Psychonautics
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 25
Happiness Is a Warm Drill
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
30 Seconds to All Night
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
Cloud Surfing
Sport
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 25
The People's Rock
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
West Rock Crack
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 17
Slightly Removed
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
A B-Boy's Alpha
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 11
The Tree of Life
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Winning and Losing
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of… Ball Field Slabs
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tax Evasion Haven Old Quarry Walls
 25
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Nickel And Dime Ball Field Slabs
 31
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
That 70 Show Ball Field Slabs
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport
Crackrock Corner Old Quarry Walls
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Psychonautics Old Quarry Walls
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Happiness Is a Warm Drill Old Quarry Walls
 25
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
30 Seconds to All Night Ball Field Slabs
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Cloud Surfing Old Quarry Walls
 10
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The People's Rock Old Quarry Walls
 25
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
West Rock Crack Ball Field Slabs
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Slightly Removed Old Quarry Walls
 17
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
A B-Boy's Alpha Old Quarry Walls
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Tree of Life Old Quarry Walls
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Winning and Losing Old Quarry Walls
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in South Buttress »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
Watch out for poison ivy, too!!! It's everywhere. I grew up here in the 60s and 70s and the scabs have just cleared up recently...LOL. Jan 7, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Man you got that right Peter. If you're schwackin you'll be scratchin'. Jan 8, 2014

More About South Buttress

Printer-Friendly
What's New
Fixed Hardware Report (62)

All Photos Within South Buttress (71)

Most Popular · Newest · Random