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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Shylobster
Page Views: 1,206 total · 25/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Oct 26, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Access Issue: DO NOT CLIMB HERE UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE!! Peregrine Falcon nesting in progress & State is closing crg Details

Description

This route gets my vote as one of the best 5.11's in the state. On the short side, but very sweet. It has great rock quality and very cool angular, geometric holds and nice technical flowing moves. If you like pinches and weird technical climbing on good rock this is the route for you! Stick clip the first bolt and utilize a small pocket to gain a jug rail. Then climb pinches and edges into a technical crux in a shallow corner. Take it home to the anchor with victory jugs.

Location

Left side of the cliff.

Protection

4 Glue ins to an anchor.

Photos

Mobes Mobesely
Granite island
Mobes Mobesely   Granite island
sweet I guess the cleared base and cut tree wasnt a good enough hint eh? I think some beer is in order for this. Nov 18, 2014
Echoinfi  
 
It was a great hint. Thanks. I like Geary's Pale Ale. Nov 21, 2014
Mobes Mobesely
Granite island
Mobes Mobesely   Granite island
LOL let me know if you need me to clear any other areas for you on my free time Nov 21, 2014
Topo Gigio
  5.11c/d
Topo Gigio  
  5.11c/d
Great bouldery route Oct 13, 2016
J Gills
  5.11+
J Gills  
  5.11+
Sustained, fun climbing! Best rock I’ve found on the quarry walls. Mar 31, 2018
Mobes Mobesely
Granite island
Mobes Mobesely   Granite island
yeah it was the most solid rock I found there. probably the spot one is less likely to die from loose rock for sure. Apr 1, 2018

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