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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Shylo
Page Views: 945 total, 49/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on May 15, 2016
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Just left of Scifentology is a very large beautiful corner. This is Psychonautics. Stick clip the 1st bolt or boulder up tufa like pinches to a crimpy technical corner. Once you are in the corner keep on your toes to the top. I have a feeling this route will be very popular.

Location

Left side of the cliff.

Protection

6 Glue-ins to a lower off.

Photos

Just leading this (without stick clipping or anything) feels sketch, but on very solid rock, and a good climb. Wish it were longer, but that's what the climbs down to the right are for. Solid bolts. Tree makes for a weird belay, but that's how climbing outside works. Thanks very much for this climb!! Aug 26, 2017
swimj
  5.8+
swimj  
  5.8+
I think this is the best of the 5.9's in the quarry. Was a bit intimidated at first by the comment above calling the climb "5.9++++". Start is indeed technical, but personally find 5.9 to be a very fair grade. Thanks for the awesome route! Aug 13, 2016
Spainman  
 
First of all, thank you Greg for the route. I tried it today and I think it is 5.9++++ technical moves at the beginning and very cool ending. The route makes you think about the sequence.
Buen trabajo amigo. May 21, 2016