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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Hunter Pedane
Page Views: 1,441 total, 38/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Nov 17, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

The stunning obvious golden wall on the left face opposite of Desparete. Start up a small corner, then make boulder moves out a bulge. Climb into a huge bomb bay corner reminiscent of a desert corner. Climb up a splitter crack through a roof, then onto a slab. The crux is at the very end move slightly right then up to the anchor.

Protection

10 Glue-ins to anchors. Definitely Spicy spacing on pro.

Location

15' feet left of Desparete.

Photos

Echoinfi  
 
Go right to the arête Oct 15, 2016
thebmags
Outback, Subaru
 
thebmags   Outback, Subaru
 
Awesome route ! Out of curiosity for the sake of doing the climb "correctly " , at the final clip does it traverse out right on crimps to the arete ? Or does it just go straight up Oct 15, 2016
christopher adams  
  5.11a
Fun climb. Nice 5.7-5.10 climbing until the holds disappear before the chains. Bit of rotten rock down low on this climb off to the right. It could've been my imagination, but the little ledge that gives the amazing rest after the first steep bit might be loose as well.. tread carefully. Jul 12, 2016
Echoinfi  
 
Once you get past bolt #2 this route just shines. Well done Hunter. May 22, 2016
Spainman
  5.11c PG13
Spainman  
  5.11c PG13
Definitely the best route in CT. It has everything. It is long so you need endurance. The crux is scary, tough and at the end of the route. The route has a slab, three roofs one big and two smalls, two aretes, a traverse and some crag climbing. It is a dream route. if you are going to try the route, my recommendation is to go fresh, don't wait too much. May 21, 2016
Topo Gigio  
 
It appears that bolts have been added to address the R issue. The route is ready to be enjoyed by all...and man is it enjoyable Nov 23, 2015
Echoinfi  
 
Hunter is going to fix this. Nov 18, 2014
7 bolts to the anchor for 100'. Yep Spicy. Nov 17, 2014