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Routes in Ball Field Slabs

30 Seconds to All Night S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Amalgamator S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Gay Al's Supercrack of the Slum T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Drill Wavin' New Haven S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Kinesthesis S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Monarch S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nickel And Dime S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sheetz of Wrath TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
That 70 Show T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wedding route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Rock Crack T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport Fixed Hardware (14)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,334 total, 66/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Oct 8, 2013
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

Nickle and Dime is a beautiful two pitch route located on the left side of the sport routes. This route can take off from different locations. The most common start is from the high ledge where Kinethesis departs. From this ledge the route follows the arete on the left end of the ledge up past four bolts to large ledge w/ two bolt chain anchors. The alternate start is a Trad start from the next ledge below Kinethesis. From this ledge follow a large handcrack 15 ft to the Kinethesis ledge and then depart along the usual arete.
Pitch two climbs up and left from the anchors along good edges. The climbing varies depending on your line. Traversing left and right around bolts usually offers easier climbing. Climb past 6 bolts along the face to the high crux and onto the two bolt chain anchors.

Protection

10 Bolts, 2 Anchors, Optional Gear start
West Rock classic! Tight bolts and proper belay spot makes for a great sport climb. Grade seems to be on point but the area could use a little TLC. Apr 14, 2017
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
Lots of zig zagging to make it 5.9. The bolts were put in to minimize rope drag and they were installed in more solid and less crumbly rock. If you stay within 6ft of the bolts there is only one distinct 5.9 Crux. Sep 7, 2015
JRM89
New Haven, CT
JRM89   New Haven, CT
First climbing back in the US and had a lot of fun today. It was hard to find a route on P2 that looked properly 5.9, but I don't question the grade... just feel I was missing something around that 4th bolt! Aug 29, 2015
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
I have forgotten to lock my car there before and wondered how fast I could get down there if I saw someone messing around with the car. Ahhhh, gotta love New Haven! Jan 1, 2015
Yes we parked at the school and crossed the bridge. It was pretty funny because we were looking at each other saying something like "I wonder whose car alarm that is?" When we got back the rear of our borrowed SUV was up and wide open although the car was otherwise undisturbed. I mistakenly unlocked the car instead of locking it. Still, a great and unexpected cragging session in our home state. We'll be back! Jan 1, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Stoked you enjoyed the routes, sorry to hear about the car incident... did you guys park over at the school and walk across the bridge? Dec 29, 2014
First time cragging at West Rock this week and first time sport climbing in CT! Great winter sun trap and great rock. Someone did try to get into our vehicle and set off the alarm so be aware. I have to say that it felt really strange to be clipping bolts in New Haven. Dec 28, 2014
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
The gear is for super crack of the slum, nickel and dime is pure sport Nov 29, 2014
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.9
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.9
A couple of hand size cams are more than enough to protect the traditional start. Tons of little rocks on top of P1 so be careful topping out and pulling the rope after rapping. I was a little confused as to where the line was around the 4th bolt on the second pitch. It seemed difficult to head straight up or right of the bolt so I ended up jogging up slightly left and staying there until the top. Nov 22, 2014
Zupan
 
Zupan  
 
Gorgeous, granite-like plated rock on p2. May 20, 2014