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Routes in Old Quarry Walls

A B-Boy's Alpha S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloodstain, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Cloud Surfari S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cloud Surfing S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crackrock Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Desparête   S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Devil's Cut S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fiendish Following S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Ghetto, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
People's Rock, The S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Psychonautics S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Run For Cover S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scifentology S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Slightly Removed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tax Evasion Haven S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Traxamillion S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tree of Knowledge, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tree of Life, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Winning and Losing S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FFA: Morgan Patterson
Page Views: 2,241 total · 49/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Apr 9, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

This route is really a unique gem in CT and reminds me very much of Fly'in Hawiian up at Rumney. Starting in the corner work your way up past 6 bolts to the large overlap. Once over the overlap climb past 3 bolts to an anchor out right (easier climbing). It climbs three ways, a chimney grunt, a corner jam, or true stemming masterpiece. You can tell which I prefer ;-)

Protection

9 Bolts to 3 Bolt Rap Anchor. Bring some long runners for TR'ing.

Photos

First bolt is very loose, to where the hanger rotates pretty freely. Had forgotten to bring wrench with me to tighten it, but it makes this whole section of 5.9's not super safe until it's fixed. Looks so fun, though. Aug 24, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Awesome work John. Thanks buddy! Jul 6, 2015
John K. Parejko
New Haven, CT
 
John K. Parejko   New Haven, CT
 
Clipped out most of the poison ivy in the dirt at the start today. There are probably plenty of roots still left, but at least there's no more leaves for ropes to drag through. Jul 2, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Dig out the ivy roots and dirt... That would take care of it. Jun 29, 2015
John K. Parejko
New Haven, CT
 
John K. Parejko   New Haven, CT
 
Just climbed this today (following a different leader). It's definitely fun. Thanks to whoever set it!

One question though: what can we do about the poison ivy at the start of the route (the patch of dirt on top of the large block)? It's exactly in the line of where the rope drops, and where loose rope feeds, and it requires doing the splits on the way down to avoid standing in it. Jun 26, 2015
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Awesome. Ya there was some discussion about which wall to place the bolts. There were several factors that lead to us placing them on the left wall. One was the right wall has sections of very questionable rock while the left wall is solid the whole way up. Second, was if they were on the right slab you would be taking falls onto the slab which is generally not preferred. One's preference of where they should be prob depends a bit on what technique is used to climb. We would like to have a bolt on Tax Evasion Haven so you could climb straight up into the route rather then start in the corner but we don't believe there is any rock able to withstand a bolt AND keep one off the ground. Apr 8, 2015
WiseOldMoon
West Hartford, Connecticut
 
WiseOldMoon   West Hartford, Connecticut
 
Got on this yesterday and managed to flash it. I wish the bolts were placed on the right wall but I can see how it probably helped for rope drag. Apr 7, 2015
Echoinfi  
 
Great Rig. Really fun and strange. Oct 13, 2014
I would also like to know. If not I'll try it soon. Jul 20, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Anyone been on this rig yet? Jun 16, 2014