Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: FFA: Morgan Patterson
Page Views: 2,466 total · 43/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Apr 9, 2014
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This route is really a unique gem in CT and reminds me very much of Fly'in Hawiian up at Rumney. Starting in the corner work your way up past 6 bolts to the large overlap. Once over the overlap climb past 3 bolts to an anchor out right (easier climbing). It climbs three ways, a chimney grunt, a corner jam, or true stemming masterpiece. You can tell which I prefer ;-)

Protection

9 Bolts to 3 Bolt Rap Anchor. Bring some long runners for TR'ing.

Photos

Morgan Patterson
CT
  5.9
Morgan Patterson   CT  
  5.9
Anyone been on this rig yet? Jun 16, 2014
I would also like to know. If not I'll try it soon. Jul 20, 2014
Echoinfi  
 
Great Rig. Really fun and strange. Oct 13, 2014
Christian Schrader
West Hartford, CT
 
Christian Schrader   West Hartford, CT
 
Got on this yesterday and managed to flash it. I wish the bolts were placed on the right wall but I can see how it probably helped for rope drag. Apr 7, 2015
Morgan Patterson
CT
  5.9
Morgan Patterson   CT  
  5.9
Awesome. Ya there was some discussion about which wall to place the bolts. There were several factors that lead to us placing them on the left wall. One was the right wall has sections of very questionable rock while the left wall is solid the whole way up. Second, was if they were on the right slab you would be taking falls onto the slab which is generally not preferred. One's preference of where they should be prob depends a bit on what technique is used to climb. We would like to have a bolt on Tax Evasion Haven so you could climb straight up into the route rather then start in the corner but we don't believe there is any rock able to withstand a bolt AND keep one off the ground. Apr 8, 2015
John K. Parejko
Seattle, WA
 
John K. Parejko   Seattle, WA
 
Just climbed this today (following a different leader). It's definitely fun. Thanks to whoever set it!

One question though: what can we do about the poison ivy at the start of the route (the patch of dirt on top of the large block)? It's exactly in the line of where the rope drops, and where loose rope feeds, and it requires doing the splits on the way down to avoid standing in it. Jun 26, 2015
Morgan Patterson
CT
  5.9
Morgan Patterson   CT  
  5.9
Dig out the ivy roots and dirt... That would take care of it. Jun 29, 2015
John K. Parejko
Seattle, WA
 
John K. Parejko   Seattle, WA
 
Clipped out most of the poison ivy in the dirt at the start today. There are probably plenty of roots still left, but at least there's no more leaves for ropes to drag through. Jul 2, 2015
Morgan Patterson
CT
  5.9
Morgan Patterson   CT  
  5.9
Awesome work John. Thanks buddy! Jul 6, 2015
First bolt is very loose, to where the hanger rotates pretty freely. Had forgotten to bring wrench with me to tighten it, but it makes this whole section of 5.9's not super safe until it's fixed. Looks so fun, though. Aug 24, 2017