Great Ledge Climbing
|GPS:||41.27, -73.384 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Matt Swartz on Oct 17, 2009|
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DescriptionGreat Ledge is a large Granitic Gneiss cliff, formed about 435-500 mya during the Ordovician period, and located on the Redding/Weston border. The Redding Land Trust owns both the top and bottom of the cliff. Their property covers almost the entire climbing area and extends about half way down to the stream from the base.
The cliff is nestled in this small drainage and remains shady most of the day. There are opportunities for top-roping and trad climbing. It should be noted that efforts to install anchors to minimize impacts of Top Ropers have been met with sledge hammers and the vandalism by a local dad and his son. These idiots don't think they just act and have left the cliff looking like garbage where they have hammered over anchor bolts. Most of the damaged bolts have since been removed.
Land Trust property Details
Redding Land Trust owns Great Ledge has a parking lot and trail to the Ledge located on Dayton Rd. Please do not park and bushwack from Newtown Turnpike (Rt. 53) as there is no established trail to this cliff and traveling on Centennial Watershed State Forest property requires you to stay on established trails and carry the following permit: ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/statepar…. RLT does not specifically have a policy on rock climbing at the ledge but should any issues arise they might very well close the property to climbing. If you intend on climbing at Great Ledge please consider a paying the $10 membership fee which can also be considered a tax donation.
Getting ThereFrom Route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and get on Weston Road going North towards the Weston Town Center. Continue North on Weston Road which becomes Newtown Turnpike. As you continue on Newtown Turnpike there will eventually be a reservoir on your right (East) - continue on this pleasant wooded road for a couple miles and look for Tudor Road on your Left. Take Tudor Road. Turn left onto Dayton Road.
Keep your eyes open for a parking area on the right side of the road with a sign that reads "The Nature Conservancy, Devil's Den Preserve, Redding Land Trust". Park here, cross the street and head back down the road to a driveway on your right. Look for white blazes on the left side of this driveway - this is the trail that leads to the Great Ledge.
This trail goes uphill for a little more then a mile (maybe further) to a junction with a sign that says "Great Ledge". Follow the sign for another 1/2 mile to the top of the ledge.
There is a vague climbers trail near a stone wall just before you get to the actual top of the ledge. Take this downhill looking to your right for the cliff.
Alternatively you can access the great ledge via Devil's Den. This route will be a longer approach. I have uploaded a copy of the Devil's Den trail map with the Great Ledge loop highlighted.
I have not personally GPSed the location of this crag - I just found the general area on the map so please don't use a GPS and rely on these coordinates to bring you to the crag!
Classic Climbing Routes at Great Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season