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Routes in Laddin's Rock

A Laddin Sane T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Aid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gorilla Traverse T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laddins Chimney/OW T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Laddins Problems, Far Right T,TR V0 4
Off the Wall T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Out to Lunch T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pullup T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Elevation: 41 ft
GPS: 41.044, -73.565 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 6,693 total, 64/month
Shared By: JYT on May 14, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description

Tucked away in the Laddin's Rock Sanctuary in a residential neighborhood in Old Greenwich, lies a 60 foot crystaly granite wall, with several routes on it. The wall is hidden by the canopy of the forest from the sun. The rock has a tendency to be wet in areas due to run-off from above. The only real crowd one might expect to see are people walking their dogs. Interesting enough, there are several rusty pitons scattered in different parts of the wall. There are also a bunch of boulders in this area as well.
There are several trad climbs, and everything is top ropeable. Might want to extend anchors to minimize rope drag.
Parking Issues Details

Getting There

Park at the Rosa Hartman Parking lot on Brown House Rd. (Stamford Side) to access the crag. Walk in West and North along a trail until you see the cliff across the drainage.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Laddin's Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0 4
Laddins Problems, Far Right
Trad, TR, Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gorilla Traverse
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
First Aid
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Laddins Problems, Far Right V0 4 Trad, TR, Boulder
Gorilla Traverse 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
First Aid 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
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I worked at GV and messed around laddins rock in the 90's. Was visiting my parents last weekend and went by. Does anyone know what the bolted crack rings in at? I'm going back this weekend and was gonna rap it and give it a scrub/look. Looks hard but its tough to tell from the ground. Sep 14, 2017
I recently moved to Stamford and went to check this spot out last weekend and wanted to give a little more info. It's pretty easy to find, just follow the paved path from the parking lot, and keep walking straight once the path ends. Once you begin the lightly traveled foot path you should be able to see the crag in the shadow of the highway. The area is covered in trash and glass, so be very careful. The granite here will definitely shred your hands a bit.

Off the Wall, although too hard for me atm, has 5 or 6 shiny new bolts. I know it's been a while since T Seas rated cigarette as v2, but I would peg it at v3 unless there's some kind of beta I'm missing. I'll take some pictures of various routes next time I'm there to include with the route info.

Mack - do you still have any of the info you collected back then? There seemed to be many climbable lines not listed on here, and I'm interested in nailing down a few of them. Also, is backslider to the right or left of the crag? I didn't see it, although I didn't look too hard. Aug 29, 2017
Julien, thanks for the video. Love the interstate in the background.
Morgan, I believe I did the FA of that arete in 1982. V4? The first time I brought sticky rubber to the crag (Boreal Fires)in 1984 I did it 3 times, but I haven't come close since.
We used to climb in the old Voyager/Vasque Ascent klettershoes, green then later tan, that had no feel but would edge on holds as thin as a paper cut. Check out old photos of Steve Wunsch on Supercrack or Jules Verne and you'll get the idea!

The entire right side was bouldered on extensively.

Want another hidden, boulder there? On the back side of the crag there is a bulge called the Backslider that has several routes. All my climbing there was before the V-scale was devised, and I'm curious to see what the young tigers rate stuff. Jun 26, 2017
Hi all, this is Mack Johnson. I grew up about a mile and a half away from Laddin's and was very active there off and on in the 70's and 80's. John Goolrick and Gahan Haskins did some aid climbing there and early leads. Felix Modugno did some of the hardest lines in the 80's.

I did a couple of handwritten guides back then and we created or climbed over 30 lines on the crag. Most were cleaned; I did the first scrubbing on rappel and lots of bouldering, but others did higher standards. I last visited summer 2016 after my mom's memorial service, and impressed myself with some of the tough moves we pulled that are impossible now (first touched the rock at age 13 and am almost 62 now; I live in Washington state so it's no longer my local rock).

The rock is very solid but sharp. it was really good that it became a park, because the private owners used to run folks off and once a man threatened to shoot me if I showed up again! Things have improved as a Greenwich park.
The park is on the Greenwich-Stamford border, and a large public housing unit is not far away. That is where the trash and graffiti come from; last summer was the first time I had seen syringes etc. around the base :-( and there were huge graffiti creations on the main wall that made some holds slick to unusable. Kinda sad, but Laddin's could be some poor kids' only access to parkland so there you go.

I just got on MP last year and it has helped me reconnect to old routes and old friends. I'll try to post more on Laddin's routes and history when I get to it. Jun 26, 2017
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Nice Video Julian... so I hate to break the news to you but that problem you climbed isn't an FA. We did that line years ago... and it was likely done years before that... but again nice video. Also it is spelled Ascent.

My parents lived right around the corner and I worked at GV for many many years as well... It's cool to see folks are getting stoked on the area despite the crap rock quality. Nov 18, 2011
Julien  
absolutely i asked those guys. i was sure they'd been there. they worked down the street. i just love it when there is no chalk, it hadn't been done for a while. http://vimeo.com/20941666 Sep 1, 2011
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Julien & T Seas - So ya unless you kids are pulling V10 and sending 5.13+ you guys likely aren't putting up any FA's @ Laddin's or any other established areas in SW/CT. Sharma, Lowell, Kupal, Gold, Carion, etc. all have been climbing here for/in the last decade... not to mention myself! The one line that we scoped that may be undone on Laddins is on the left end following a seam/crystals up and left... prob goes around 13 but may very well have gone before. And there are V8 variations on that small boulder too.. Jul 17, 2011
Again, I doubt it. We cleaned a ton of stuff 25 - 30 years ago... much of it has since re-grunged back over since. Even before we got there, folks like Mac Johnson had already ticked off most of the stuff Nov 17, 2010
T Seas  
I like to believe that there are FA's to be had still in this state, and in my mind, unless it has signs of being climbed already or is in a guidebook, its a FA as far as I am conserned. I bet some aboriganies climbed some of these cliffs before the first European settlers came over... Nov 17, 2010
I suspect Felix Modugno sent that boulder problem some 30 years ago, That crag has been covered like a cheap suit over the ages by hundreds of climbers. Nov 12, 2010
T Seas  
Sick Julien, next time i am in town I'll have to see this beta cuz I cant picture the moves. Is this a climb for 6'4" climbers only? Oct 21, 2010
Julien  
Two great lines to hit, also more TR lines (shorter) past the Z line. Also, a couple fun boulder problems past the shorter TRs. Aug 4, 2010
Julien  
It's probably 40 feet. Aug 4, 2010
JYT
JYT  
That seem to the left of zee crack is fun Oct 19, 2009
T Seas  
Went back over weekend to boulder. Here are some updates.

There are a couple of route climbs here in addition to zee crack. left of zee crack is a small crack seam that climbs past a piton. Up the hill from Zee Crack is some hi ball bouldering or short TR climbs, as well as some fun traverses. (Has big vertical split that is a great no hands rest) There is a fun V2ish boulder problem starting on the low horizontal that goes up and left through little crimps and a 2 finger dish.

On the boulder behind zee crack there are 4 definite problems. Cigarette, as mentioned before seemed much easier than remembered and I would peg at V2ish and starts on the very low right hand side pull and the left hand sloper right under the under cling. Stay right on the arête as you climb, don't go left to better holds as you want to top out at the point of the arête.

The next boulder problem is under the overhung side of the boulder and you sit start by the right arête. (farthest from cliff) there is a bulge in front of you slap with left hand as your right goes up the corner until you can gain a high foot and fire to the only "hold" in the middle of the blank overhang about 8 feet off the ground. Then top out in the middle of the over hang. This one probably goes at V3-4ish and can shred the hands a little.

The last two climbs are on the far side of the boulder on the slab. One starts on the far left of the slab, near the overhanging arête start. You can actually start the overhung climb and move right around the arête to finish on the slab climb to make the problem a little tougher. There are many variations on the numerous sharp crimps and I put together like 8 different ways to top out, but the left and right side are clear routes that just go up. Trying to start a traverse from the right to left but it is tough if you don't use the top edge.

Usually not much chalk on this boulder and I have never ran into someone here so have fun route finding! Jul 6, 2009
T Seas  
There are two decent problems on the two aretes on the boulder mentioned behind zee crack. Either arete is fun (the overhanging side) and the close one (cliff side) prolly comes in around v2-4ish from the sitstart. A buddy from Go-V said it was called cigarette but have no idea the name. If ever back in town I'll try to get some pics of sw CT areas. (this and the very little on mt laurell is all that anyone has up here) Jun 8, 2009

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