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Routes in Laddin's Rock

A Laddin Sane T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
First Aid T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gorilla Traverse T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Laddins Chimney/OW T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Laddins Problems, Far Right T,TR V0 4
Off the Wall T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Out to Lunch T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pullup T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snot Nose T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA: John Goolrick and Gahan Haskins early 1970's, FFA: Goolrick
Page Views: 1,430 total, 14/month
Shared By: JYT on May 14, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Parking Issues Details

Description

Climb the slab at the end of the wall before the base of the cliff starts going uphill to the walk-off. Traverse the horizontal crack to the left. Get high right feet until you can swing your legs over to the left to avoid the slippery bare section in the middle of the traverse. Use the undercling beneath small roof and/ or finger crack on the right side of the overhang to pull to a nice jug. Hammer out this section of upward right hand traversing to get to the big ledge. Power through short vertical wide hands crack to the top.

Location

This route is located at the far right end of the wall just before some nice boulders, where the ground starts to go up hill. A downed tree is a good seat for relaxing/ top rope belay spot. The first horizontal crack is easily spotted. Follow it right and you will see the slab you must climb to get onto the crack. The walk off is up and to the right if your heels were on the edge of the cliff.

Protection

.5'-3 Camelots are great. Nuts are helpful too on the upward right hand traverse. The rusty pitons do not look good. Two .5's is prime. There is a tree and or a large crack to build an anchor.

Photos

Rockanice
New York
Rockanice   New York
The route used to be 5.8, before a hidden undercling in the left traverse was pried out by someone. I found the hold at the base of the route in maybe early '90s and it has since helped border part of my garden at home. Sep 22, 2017
JYT
 
JYT  
 
changed it! Jul 18, 2017
Mack Johnson  
 
This route is named Gorilla Traverse. Several finishes.
FA Goolrick and Haskins early 1970's
FFA Goolrick Jun 26, 2017