Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: FA was A3 aid. Gahan Haskins, Chris Falkenstein and John Goolrick.
Page Views: 818 total · 9/month
Shared By: Johnny K. on Aug 2, 2011 with updates from Mack Johnson and 1 other
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Parking Issues Details

Description

Climbs around laddins dont see much traffic so be weary of lichen/debry in cracks and on the face.The protection is sparse,precise and small.Combined with the technical climbing,it would be a very strenuous committing proper lead(R/X).

I have left the grade to be subjective and name unknown,until proper information is given from previous ascents.There are some small copperheads/old stoppers and fixed pins in various places that give confirmation of early ascents.

Location

Towards the center of laddins crack

Protection

RP's and tiny stoppers etc
Tcu/c3 000-0
good natural anchors atop to setup tr

Photos

Hobie Ponting
Stamford, CT
Hobie Ponting   Stamford, CT
This route is now bolted. 6 bolts plus a two bolt anchor at the top. Jan 13, 2018
Mack Johnson
Silverdale, WA
 
Mack Johnson   Silverdale, WA
 
I think it's a shame that this route has been bolted at a longtime traditional area. Check out my lengthy comment on the Laddin's Rock home page. Off the Wall may have been led previously without bolts, and some of these bolts have been placed near good natural pro. Please consider leaving this cliff unbolted. May 15, 2018
Rob Nazara
Bronxville, NY
Rob Nazara   Bronxville, NY
FYI: First bolt and a couple more on this route have spinners... May 28, 2018
Morgan Patterson   CT  
I agree with the sentiment Mack - but I would point out calling it a Traditional area presume people climb trad here. At best its been a TR area for the last 20-30 years. May 29, 2018
John Goolrick
Greenwich, Ct.
John Goolrick   Greenwich, Ct.
To set the record straight, Laddins Rock has been a traditional climbing area since 1970, when Chris Falkenstein, Gay Haskins and I were influenced by the clean climbing movement, and put up every route here, except for A Laddin Sane, which Felix Modugno sent in the late 1970s. Falkenstein led the 1st ascent of Off the Wall, followed by Haskins and me. We did not use any bolts or pitons on any route at Laddins Rock, except on Off the Wall, where Falkenstein placed one bolt, and two pins, including a RURP. I wonder if any of today's climbers know what a RURP is? I'm saddened by the fact that today's climbers, see any route at Laddin's as a sport's route, as they all went trad almost 50 years ago. Nov 13, 2018