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Routes in The Chin

Defender T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Frenchman's Cap 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging High T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhadamanthus T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Rhadamanthus Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Warehouse Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wiessner's Rib 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yvette T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: William House, Wilson Ware 1934
Page Views: 441 total, 13/month
Shared By: wivanoff on Mar 10, 2015
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

This is known as the first girdle traverse ever done in the USA. I got the original description from an ancient copy of "Appalachia" and modified it after climbing it with Bob Schrader and Alex Catlin in 1986

P1: Scramble to a small ledge 10' below the overhang. Climb up and left to a good ledge about 30' away.

P2: Continue left, crossing Frenchman’s Cap, the top of Yvette, and Defender. Cross a chimney, which is partly overhung by the left leaning Defender buttress, and climb diagonally upward from here to a vine infested belay ledge about 15' from the top, on the broken wall around the corner to the north of Wiessner’s Rib.

P3: Continue left and up almost to the top of the cliff. Climb around the corner and down on large blocks to a ramp. “Hand traverse” around another corner, step left and downclimb on nice layback holds to a niche. This downclimbed section was crossed by rappel and pendulumn on the FA.

P4: Climb down and left. Step across a wide groove at an old pin. Climb up past the belay stance on Wiessner’s Rib. Continue on to the prominent south sloping platform by the start of Rhadamanthus

P5: A short descent is made from the far side of the platform. Continue left on the same level for about 50' - crossing below the smooth Rhadamanthus wall. Crosses an easy gully at the same height, and continue to the yellow buttress about 80’ away.

P6: From the pillar, step up and around a corner then on to another corner with an old ring pin. Step up and around this corner. Walk across a wide broken gully to the base of a low angle buttress.

P7: Climb the low angle buttress to the top.

Location

This is a right to left girdle traverse

From Yvette/Frenchman's Cap walk north past a broken wall with a tree growing on a ledge about 3/4 of the way up the cliff. Continue north to another wall with an overhang about half way up.

Protection

Standard rack. No bolts. Any fixed pins are worthless and listed only for route finding. Don’t forget to provide protection for your second on the downclimbed section of P3.

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Morgan Patterson   CT  
Great addition, Thanks!! Mar 11, 2015