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Routes in Main Walls

Call it "41a" T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Acid Reign T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Arrowhead T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Block of Ages T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Catapult T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Catatonia T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney-Top Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Claw Marks T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Danzig TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Elegant Monkey T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Feline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Mate T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Golden Book T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Imperial Wizard TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jaguar TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Pegasus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Phantasmagoria T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Pink Elephants T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Realm of the Senses T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saturday Night Special T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Triple Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
White Fandango T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

The Main Walls offer routes at all levels of difficulty. While there are some excellent leads, most routes are top roped. There is no fixed hardware so bring a long dynamic rope/webbing to reach trees that are well back from the cliff edge. Watch for sharp edges. Cathole is notorious for loose rock so wear a helmet at all times.

Getting There

Hike up the steep approach trail that starts at the north end of the parking area. The trail trends to the left through boulders and loose rock. You end up beneath Pegasus. To access the top, duckwalk through the narrow opening between the cliff and a huge free-standing boulder at the far right end () beneath Golden Book. Follow the obvious and VERY loose trail up a gully. There is another ascent trail on the far left side of the crag.

26 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Walls

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
I feel like this crag gets a lot of traffic, not so much due to the quality of the climbing, but more the proximity to the road, but pegasus is definitely worth a visit. Sep 16, 2010
Ladd    
Thanks for the photos Jimo. Jan 18, 2008
Jim O'Brien
Branford, CT
Jim O'Brien   Branford, CT
I was sent out on a recon mission by Ladd; please let me know if I have confused myself with describing the photos. There are more climbs of questionable quality, be mindful of loose rock, it's Connecticut!
Right On! JimO Jan 18, 2008

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