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Areas in Eastern Coastal Slope

9 Wall (Feather Ledges) 6 / 5 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 28 / 14 / 18 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 43
Grey Matter Area, The 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
High Ledge 1 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Lantern Hill 2 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Madison Land Conservation: Indian Rock Caves 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Mystic Areas 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Pad Crag 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Rock Lake 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 544 ft
GPS: 41.44, -72.541 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 53,533 total, 439/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Dec 10, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson
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Description

Welcome to Connecticut's Riviera. The Eastern Coastal Slope is home to Connecticut's oldest towns that lie along the scenic center shore fronts of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River.

Like its French and Italian cousins, east of the city of New Haven, the shoreline changes and turns to a landscape of small towns, villages, and beautiful inland farms. Some of the towns are plain every day Americana, but many are beautiful, graceful, historic and delightful like Killingworth, Madison, Guilford, Stonington, and Mystic.

What makes this place unique are the waters of Long Island Sound and the Connecticut River, their benign moderating influence on the climate makes the Connecticut shoreline a good place for vineyards and wineries and for sunny snow free winter days of crisp bouldering or climbing on some of America's best metaphoric gneiss.

Hammonasset Beach State Park in Madison has a fine long sand beach on Long Island Sound that is a favorite retreat on a rest day or for a simple afternoon of shoreline bouldering.

Some of the best areas include Westwoods, Chatfield, the Nehantic State Forest, and the Groton/Mystic areas. Although the cliffs and boulders tend to be small, you will find some of Connecticut's best climbs and boulder problems in this region. All styles exist here from physical 5.13 sport routes on 1/2" glue-ins, to mixed routes, traditionally protected splitter cracks of all grades, to radically overhanging boulder roof problems. The attitude is distinctly that of a progressive New England seaport town: cultured, traveled, global, and Yankee.

Groton is famous for it war submarine industry and ships that have sailed and protected every ocean in the world. Mystic was a famous seaport in colonial and early American times because of its international ship building industry, and it is now famous for the Mystic Seaport museum. There are many boulders in this region that are remains of the last ice age 18,000 years ago in the surrounding forests.

A few miles to the north on the tribal reservations of the Mohegan and Mashantucket Pequot peoples are the massive flashy Casinos of Mohegan Sun and Foxwoods.

In this region you will find Lantern Hill with its unique Quartzite and surreal views of Foxwoods and the forests Mashantucket Pequot reservation.

Enjoy the simple charm of this place and keep it clean and beautiful for future generations to come.

Here is a small video sample of some of the areas.

Getting There

I-95 and I-395 provide access to the region.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Eastern Coastal Slope

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Slab
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Clark Bar Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TRad Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
P&H
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Porcelain Arete
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rusty Oldtimer
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jungle Face
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Bloody Beetroots
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Frenzy
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zeitgeist
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shape Shifter
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
The Cold Vein
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Modern Collective
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Super Slab Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Clark Bar Crack Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
TRad Crack Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
P&H Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Porcelain Arete Lantern Hill 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X TR
Rusty Oldtimer 9 Wall (Feather Ledges) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Jungle Face Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
The Bloody Beetroots Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Forearm Frenzy Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Di… Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Zeitgeist Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Shape Shifter Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Cold Vein Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Modern Collective Chatfield Hollow Main Wall 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Eastern Coastal Slope »

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