Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,308 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ladd on Dec 12, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

A great slab route!

Start off the ground at the obvious crack, place some pro and scramble up to the ledge then continue up the sloping holds and smears to the crux undercling move that is easier if taller, the pro after the half-way point is sparse, but you won't fall unless a bear tackles you.

Location

Center of the slab just left of Forearm Frenzy.

Protection

Frequent god gear at the bottom, but much less after the half-way point.

Photos

Mobes Mobesely   MDI
 
can be done 3 different ways by either breaking right or left at the roof or just going strait over it. safe lead for sure. Jul 3, 2008
John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.5
John Biehn   Madison, CT
  5.5
Depending on which variation you do the grade can be much harder for shorter climbers. Great lead with good gear when you need it.... Black snakes like to hang in the large horizontal cracks near the top. Jun 15, 2011
Rosalie
  5.5
Rosalie  
  5.5
Top roped b/c I haven't climbed in months. Nice easy climb along the crack, a bit more of a challenge if you start out left. Oct 10, 2011
micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
micah richard   Litchfield, Connecticut
Fun easy slab route with a much harder crux section (the bulge) in the middle of an otherwise very easy route. Good gear all the way up. The bulge is intimidating for the grade. A freind of mine who just started leading, led clark bar crack with no problem earlier in the day. He got shut down at the crux of this route the same day on the lead. Sep 24, 2012
tommyguns  
 
Can be top roped with a gear anchor, but good luck finding trees. I used small cams with a sliding X, a good BD .75 off a little lower to climbers right and a big nut further back up top and left. Also a decent BD #1 two-three feet below anchor master point as a back up, good to be safe. The variation that goes left of the bulge is super fun. Use gear to eliminate a big swing when on TR. May 7, 2013
No gear up top - except for plenty of cam and nut placements.

Nice route though, would be better without the lower offs. Good gear belay up top. Aug 2, 2015
Mobes Mobesely   MDI
 
Unfortunately Dan, CT climbers tend to ignore gear anchors and tie off small trees 50' back and over trails on a regular basis.

A good variation to the climb is to pull the bulge and climb no hands to the top. 5.7+ Aug 3, 2015
Brian M
San Diego, CA
 
Brian M   San Diego, CA
 
Old copperhead skin under the large flat rock after topping out, good chance the snake who made it is close by Jun 30, 2017