Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Anarchist , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Vein , The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear The Wolf T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Forearm Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kilometer Variation V4 6B
Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Jap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sleep Walker , The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer V5 6C
Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Vivid V5 6C
TRad Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport
FA: Shylo
Page Views: 3,533 total, 47/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Oct 9, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


28 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Right most arete on the Psycho Jap wall. A steep bouldery, core intensive, start leads to jugs and largest hold on the cliff (the Root) that you can sit on, knee bar, leg jam.. Continue up the arete on large holds to a tricky reach and mantle to an anchor with hidden pockets near it. A good and probably easier variation is to cut left at the 4th bolt and finish up on the last bolt of "Cold Vein" immediately to the left. This is the "Death Crew 77" variation that has a really neat pocket hold and nice holds to clip the anchor.

http://youtu.be/vNO8ItNQBFQ

Location

center of the cliff on the "Psycho Jap" wall.

Protection

Glue-ins.

Stick clip the first bolt.
ckersch
  5.11a
ckersch  
  5.11a
There's a no-hands rest after almost every move, but 11a felt about right for the starting and finishing boulder problems, at least the way I did them. Finish felt like the crux, but I don't mantle very often. Jun 9, 2014
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.11c
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.11c
Actually for the first 15 or so years I only cragged on weekdays(maple and american fork get too crowded on weekends), it wasnt until I moved east where everyone is a slave to the man that it became weekends. Honestly though, I've been known to belay with a grigri with no hand on the brake side while not wearing a helmet on top of clipping in the wrong direction. I guess I like the thrill of it all. Dec 12, 2013
Morgan Patterson
CT
5.15+
Morgan Patterson   CT  
5.15+
Leif... I think u meant "bare" not "bear" seeing as shylo shaves his chest... Dec 12, 2013
Leif  
Just want to point out another thing about these photos. The "Leader" is SHIRTLESS and belayer, god have mercy on his soul, is WEARING A TANKTOP! I though Mountain Project was one of the last corners of the internet where I wouldnt get bombarded with shirtless men and their tanktop toting "partners". To hell with the direction of the draws put some clothes on before you take a slab whipper and tear the shit out of you bear chests!

-Leif "this was a fine distraction from studying" Anderdorf Dec 11, 2013
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.11c
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
  5.11c
This is funny for two reasons.

- ratings at the Gunks maybe be on the YDS but I would never compare the ratings there to any other crag I've ever been to. I'd go as far to say that the ratings there are almost a number grade off most places. I do agree the B.Beetroots would be a 10b at the Gunks though. Guy Bon wouldnt know this since he has never done a route there! Hell, most of the 5.10 cracks I've done in Yosemite would get downrated to 5.9 at the gunks.

-the spline on the line thing... not once in 20 years of craggin have I ever heard of a draw coming unclipped besides a backclip. If you spend any time at new areas you dont know which way the line goes until your feet are already above the draw. I guess I need to brush up on some sport climbing 101 books myself, you can add me to the unsafe crowd too since I have never downclimbed to change the draw around. Its a good thing Guy has given up roped climbing for pebble wrestling huh? Dec 11, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
Nate,

I'm sorry if I offended you but no matter if you can walk up 5.13s or not they were still incorrectly placed draws and potentially dangerous. You don't have to make a video, proper biner gate orientation is mentioned in every sport climbing 101 book and video already.

Brian Dec 11, 2013
guy bon
  Easy 5th
guy bon  
  Easy 5th
Brian, you have offended me. it hurts knowing you think i'm endangering myself and setting a dangerous example for future CT climbers. However, i've hung up some draws on my home wall so I can practice clipping correctly. Maybe I'll make a video for everyone.

In any case, it's a good thing I didn't fall out of the knee bar, or off the 1 foot ledge I was standing on, or off the hero jugs at the end, or onto the correctly placed last draw, you know, the only one that matters on this route.... Dec 11, 2013
Morgan Patterson
CT
5.15+
Morgan Patterson   CT  
5.15+
And ur downgrading it too, to 10b? good catch though on the draws... Dec 10, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.10b
In the video linked above all of the draws are facing the wrong way. "Spine towards the line" is basic sport climbing knowledge. The climber is to the right of the draws the whole way up and the gates are facing him. I don't mean to embarrass anyone but this should be pointed out so new climbers don't replicate it. Dec 10, 2013
John Biehn
Madison, CT
 
John Biehn   Madison, CT
 
Most unique feature at Chatfield-- great addition and is super fun! Oct 28, 2011
guy bon
  Easy 5th
guy bon  
  Easy 5th
Fun, pumpy climbing. Another unique climb at Chatfield. Oct 11, 2011