Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: John MacLean TR. Ryan Richetelli
Page Views: 2,375 total · 20/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Forearm Direct aka The Hollow Head Crew. This line starts 15' to climbers right of the Forearm Frenzy flake on some cool slopers and crimps and blasts up to a huge hanging jug in the middle of the wall. Finish straight up on Forearm Frenzy or the various Forearm finishes. This climb is very popular and the stronger locals will often "warm-up" on it in their Guide Tennies.

Location

Z crack, Forearm Frenzy Wall.

Protection

Glue-ins and then gear.

Photos

John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.12- X
John Biehn   Madison, CT
  5.12- X
This was always known as a direct variation to Forearm Frenzy 5.12-'ish... When was the FA? Was it done on TR? I redpointed this on TR in the spring of 2000- I'm sure it had been climbed before that.... Jun 15, 2011
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
The route is about 25+ years old and named for the crew of knuckleheads who came bounding through while Whitey (John MacLean) and I were working on the problem. The leader, who looked like he spent all day benchpressing said "We're climbers too. We don't use ropes though" (Think Stallone voice, and no, they weren't boulderers) Jul 3, 2011
John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.12- X
John Biehn   Madison, CT
  5.12- X
Haha.. that is awesome! Its good to know more of the history about this place. Do you know who drew the old topo for this place? I remember having some handed down drawings of this place in '99 or earlier.... Sep 16, 2011
GymRat  
Led this...could use a bolt or 2. May 18, 2012
mitchy B
nunya gotdamn business.
mitchy B   nunya gotdamn business.
I was out there the other day and there are bolts to the left of the Z crack, and anchor chains at the top. Haven't been there in a few years but someones been having fun with bolts. Jul 24, 2012