Type: Sport, 55 ft (17 m)
FA: TR: John MacLean and Marc Sprague. FFA: Shylo
Page Views: 8,552 total · 50/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Mar 25, 2010
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


43 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

This is probably the best 5.12 at Chatfield, one of the best 5.12's in CT, and maybe even in New England. The route has amazing holds that change in form as you progress up the route: small crimps, angular pinches, a pocket, huge pillow slopers, to huge roof jugs. Start on the Forearm Frenzy crack and cut immediately left to a good jug hold and then start up the crimps in the overhanging wall. Steady 5.10+ crimping leads to a technical foot intensive boulder problem with a big reach left to a angular pinch. This move is followed by another boulder problem with a big reach to a pin scar pocket and a big jug. Once you have gained the overhanging sloper pillows, and a good hold, climb out the amazing, severely overhanging roof.

A New England classic.

Video: youtu.be/3r9xh8AfkTI

Video: youtube.com/watch?v=A_Ge-98…

Protection Suggest change

Glue-ins

Photos

loading