Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: TR: John MacLean and Marc Sprague. FFA: Shylo
Page Views: 5,998 total · 48/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Mar 25, 2010
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

This is probably the best 5.12 at Chatfield, one of the best 5.12's in CT, and maybe even in New England. The route has amazing holds that change in form as you progress up the route: small crimps, angular pinches, a pocket, huge pillow slopers, to huge roof jugs. Start on the Forearm Frenzy crack and cut immediately left to a good jug hold and then start up the crimps in the overhanging wall. Steady 5.10+ crimping leads to a technical foot intensive boulder problem with a big reach left to a angular pinch. This move is followed by another boulder problem with a big reach to a pin scar pocket and a big jug. Once you have gained the overhanging sloper pillows, and a good hold, climb out the amazing, severely overhanging roof.

Video: youtu.be/3r9xh8AfkTI

Video: youtube.com/watch?v=A_Ge-98…

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