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Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Anarchist , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Vein , The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear The Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Forearm Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kilometer Variation V4 6B
Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Jap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sleep Walker , The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer V5 6C
Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Vivid V5 6C
TRad Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elevation: 298 ft
GPS: 41.365, -72.594 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 45,049 total, 365/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Oct 29, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

Chatfield Hollow's Main Wall is the crown jewel of all the rope climbing in and around Chatfield State Park. People have been climbing here at the Main Wall since the early 1970's and new routes are still going up here today. The Main Wall at Chatfield has a good diversity routes in a beautiful hardwood forest setting. Chatfield's metamorphic gneiss rock is distinctively different from Central CT's trap rock. It has exquisitely featured grey and gritty overhanging walls, roofs, aretes, cracks, and slabs with a good mixture of grades for all climbers from a beginner climbing 5.3 to an expert climbing 5.13s. You will be amazed by the holds you have to use on the routes here: finger cracks, jugs, huge slopers, underclings, edges, pockets, and razor blade crimps.

What is unique here, unlike many other Connecticut climbing areas, is that all styles of climbing live in harmony here. You can climb traditional gear protected routes, mixed routes, or pure sport climbs. Chatfield is a great place to climb a lot of routes in a day. It is compact and there are a lot of good routes within a close space. Some great moderates include the Trad Crack, Clark Bar Crack, Kyles Corner, and Super Slab. If you are looking to test yourself check out the Anarchist, Zeitgeist, Shape Shifter, Cold Vein, Its Own Spirit or the massive link-up of the Modern Collective. All these routes are different and they all pack a unique style of punch from bouldery to technical. Last but definitely not least, the traditionally protected crack routes here are some of the best in the state. Routes like Forearm Frenzy and Wallow In the Hollow will test your knowledge of gear placement and your climbing talents. These routes are classics and should not be missed if you are able to climb them.

If new to the area and you are coming here for the first time bring a rope, some quick draws, and a standard rack with lots of small and medium cams. Be very carefully when you are walking on the delicate thin soils of the cliff top to set up your top ropes. Try as much as possible to tread lightly in this fragile environment. Walk on rock as much as possible. You will see some dead trees and battered vegetation and muddy trails from years of top-roping use/abuse. Walk on established trails or bare rock when you are setting up your anchors. Also please pick up any trash you might see on the way in or at the cliff. Let's keep Chatfield great for the next generation of climbers to come.

Getting There

From Route 9 (Main cliff area): take Exit 9. Follow Route 81 south to Route 80 at the traffic circle, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away on the North side of the road.

From I-95: take Exit 63. Follow Route 81 north to Route 80 west, watch for park entrance signs on the right, drive a little farther, park on the left walk up the road 150yds past a little roadcut then head into the woods just before the guardrail (faint trail) head in cliff is less than 100yds away on North side of the road.

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Slab
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Clark Bar Crack
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TRad Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
P&H
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jungle Face
Trad, TR
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt
TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Bloody Beetroots
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forearm Frenzy
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Captain Moonlite
Trad, Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct
Trad, Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Psycho Jap
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Zeitgeist
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shape Shifter
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
The Cold Vein
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Modern Collective
Trad, Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Super Slab 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Clark Bar Crack 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
TRad Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
P&H 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Jungle Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad, TR
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
The Bloody Beetroots 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Forearm Frenzy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Captain Moonlite 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Di… 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Psycho Jap 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Zeitgeist 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Shape Shifter 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Cold Vein 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Modern Collective 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, Sport
More Classic Climbs in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall »

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I had some help with my ropes today right by super slab.

Guys just so you know this is not a rattler. It's an eastern hognose. Totally harmless he just eats frogs. Didn't want to startle anyone. Jul 31, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
What color route on the beta map brian? Sounds like you are talking about shape shifter, 12c. May 20, 2014
Morgan Patterson   CT  
For climber impact reasons, try NOT to TR off any trees at Chatfield or the rest of CT for that matter. Please try leading to anchors for sport routes or lowering down and setting your rope on anchors and rapping from there. Only TR off trees if absolutely necessary. Apr 1, 2014
Greatly appreciated thank you! Mar 30, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Ben,

I can't think of anyplace where you would need more than a couple of 20 ft lengths of webbing or >50 ft length of static rope except maybe for the easy slab (Super Slab). There are trees close to the top of the cliff just about everywhere. Some sport routes have bolted anchors that are down aways and out of reach from the top without ropeing up. Have fun. Mar 30, 2014
Hi all! I'm planning a trip here next weekend. I was wondering whether the towrope routes are off of trees, bolts or pro? How much webbing is recommended? Thank you! Mar 29, 2014
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Morgan, I guess I didn't get the tongue-in-cheek. Don't worry I never take these debates too seriously unless it involves a safety issue. It's just the rather silly pursuit of climbing up a rock. Dec 31, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
lighten up brian... i was poking fun. TR is aid. Dec 31, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
Morgan,
Calling top-roping aid climbing is not in keeping with the generally accepted definition of aid climbing. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aid_c… Under your definition you could call hang-doging on a rope while red pointing a route aid climbing. I would suspect that most of the bolted lines here were top-roped at one time or another and just not recorded anywhere. For example, I know that the Bloody Beetroots arete was top-roped back in the late 80s way before it was bolted. None by Ken that I know of but it wouldn't surprise me if Bob Clark, or Whitey MacLean and Marc Sprague didn't top-rope many of the routes here. Anyway, my point is, if you ask the vast majority of climbers what an FFA is they would tell you it is an aid climb that was freed not a top-rope climb that was later bolted and led. My 2 cents is I'd have, for example, Shape Shifter listed as FA (TR): John MacLean and Marc Sprague. FA (Lead): Greg Shyloski. Either way it isn't that important. Nobody is going to die by calling it a FFA.

Brian Dec 30, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
It's good and important that you make the distinction Brian. For accuracy, Shape Shifter and Psycho Jap are the only two TR 'routes' that were bolted and maybe one could argue Hallow Head Crew but that's a variation. Lets be honest about the TR though... it's just Aid. Could have only taken a fraction of a lb of weight for an instant, but at that point it's aid ;-P Isn't that why Kenny always notes everything that was TR and not actually lead? Dec 30, 2013
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
There are a few climbs here that were previously done on top-rope, e.g. Shape Shifter, and the first lead (after bolting) is listed as an "FFA." An FFA has always referred to a climb that was done with aid and when freed it was referred to as an FFA. Top-roping is free climbing so shouldn't the sport lead be called something like "first lead" or "FA (lead)" or something like that? Not a big deal but the nomenclature may be confused for a previous aid climb.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First… Dec 28, 2013
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
erik- unfortunately the quality of "trad" climbers in CT is not up to par of the other 49 states. nothing is normal here really. the bolts are trustworthy, just make sure nobody has tried to hacksaw through them before you clip and you may have to lift up some padlocks and clip underneath them while leading. Nov 30, 2012
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
I was just wondering why the decision was made to place glue-ins instead of expansion bolts here? Obviously the rock quality is entirely adequate for expansion bolts. Just wondering if this is the precedent for the area now. Thanks. Nov 20, 2012
superkick
West Hartford, CT
superkick   West Hartford, CT
yeah +1 for bolting TR routes...

should definitely tie more lines to trees for TRing and kill them isntead of bolting lifeless rock. Oct 8, 2012
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
I love a bolted route about 100 times more than a TR route. Dec 6, 2011
Morgan Patterson   CT  
+1 for bolting TR routes! Way to go boys! Aug 26, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Sweet! I always wanted to go back and bolt Shape Shifter Jul 3, 2011
guy bon  
wahoooo!...two new routes and a couple otherwise unprotectable .12s Jun 23, 2011
Toby, I was there a couple weeks ago and saw the bolts going up the face and to the overhang directly left of Forearm Frenzy. Looked like glue-ins instead of threaded bolts... Jun 11, 2011
Toby
Jackson, WY
Toby   Jackson, WY
Rumor has it some bolts just got added to this area! Anyone have any idea which routes got bolted. When I climbed here years ago Ken Nichols was always there too and those bolts wouldn't have lasted long. Jun 10, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Hey Ladd, you should talk to Whitey (John MacLain). We used to climb there many years ago and he put up a bunch of TR routes and will probably remember the names. Just to the left of Forearm Frenzy we put up a really nice 12c that Whitey called Shape Shifter that was really good. It starts out on crimpers, than has some slopey moves and a bit of a roof to the final headwall moves that I think ended with a dyno. It would be a classic lead route with a few bolts...someday. There are a bunch of other nice TR problems there as well as a few challenging crack leads. Jan 3, 2008

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