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Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Anarchist , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Vein , The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear The Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Forearm Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kilometer Variation V4 6B
Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Jap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sleep Walker , The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer V5 6C
Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Vivid V5 6C
TRad Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport, 50 ft Fixed Hardware (5)
FA: Morgan Patterson, SA: Nate Labieniec
Page Views: 2,164 total, 29/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Nov 16, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


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Description

Starting 10ft right of Kyle's Corner, climb sloping arete up past diagonal crack (gear) on good holds past a bolt to a mantle move to gain the main ledge 15ft up (cam for directional is helpful down low). Starting at a good pocket up and left continue up the slightly overhanging face using good holds and small crimpers to the gain the lip and anchor. Good dynamic climbing on great holds. Many thanks to Ryan and Shylo for making this route happen!

Named after: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capta…

Location

Left end of the Psycho Jap Wall. Start on sloping diagonal ramp 10ft right of Kyle's Corner.

Protection

2 yellow Metolious cams & 3 Bolts to Anchor.

Photos

Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
DAMIT Josh... Apr 11, 2013
josh villeneuve
Enfield, CT
josh villeneuve   Enfield, CT
I ripped off a pretty good crimp hold somewhere near the top, might be a little harder now. Apr 11, 2013
Sweet line! I'm nowhere near a 5.12 climber, but I've done "Captain Moonlight's Wimpy Exit" variation (I just made that name up, I'm sure someone has done what I've done before). You exit left on the 4th class slab and corner after doing the mantle move at half height. Climbing is maybe 5.8+/5.9-. Very fun moves and well protected. Place a directional for your second after mantling. Oct 18, 2012
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
whats an SA? Sucky Attempt? Oct 15, 2012
Echoinfi
  5.12a
Echoinfi  
  5.12a
The anchor just got updated. This is a great route. It basically breaks down into three sections between good holds. There are some long moves on this one too. 5.12a or b. Mar 16, 2012