Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,282 total · 20/month
Shared By: Echoinfi on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

The obvious steep classic crack on the climbers right hand side of the cliff on the first real piece of climbable real-estate that you come upon during the approach. The crack takes excellent gear and the rock quality is excellent. The route consists of two small boulder problems separated by a huge horizontal crack rest. The first boulder problem has a left hand crimp and small feet. The upper and harder crux has two opposing gastons.

The route does suffer from seepage at the top.The rock ramp on the left is "off" for the feet.

There is also an excellent variation which starts on top of the ramp and follows the obvious crack into the top boulder problem of Wallow in the Hallow. It starts on a cool pinch and left gaston to gain the horizontal then do the crux of Wallow. This is probably 5.12a and its a good way to dial in the top crux.

Location

climbers right hand side of the cliff.

Protection

Small and medium cams on lead, more popular as a top rope (trees).

Photos

guy bon
  5.12c
guy bon  
  5.12c
Feels like two V4-5 boulder problems separated by an ok rest. 5.12+. Mar 30, 2012
percious
Bear Creek, CO
percious   Bear Creek, CO
Was Chuck Boyd the FA on this one? Dec 7, 2012
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
I'm pretty sure it was Whitey (John) MacLean but that might have been the TR and not the lead. Dec 7, 2012
Echoinfi
  5.12c
Echoinfi  
  5.12c
Whitey said he never led it. One of the best cracks in CT. Pretty nails too. Mar 7, 2013
Kevin Johnson
  5.12+
Kevin Johnson  
  5.12+
To me the upper crux felt much easier than the lower. The upper crux was not as powerful, although knowing how to jam a flared 1 inch crack might help. Cool sequence of moves. Although the route is short, it is worth the visit. The crack seeps after a rain. Apr 25, 2017