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Routes in Chatfield Hollow Main Wall

Anarchist , The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Blinded By The Puss T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bloody Beetroots, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Captain Moonlite T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Clark Bar Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Cold Vein , The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dyno Problem TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Edgy T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Exposed TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Fear The Wolf T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Food Pyramid T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Forearm Frenzy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Its Own Spirit T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Jungle Face T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Kilometer Variation V4 6B
Kyles Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lisa's Layback T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Magic Central S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Marmalade T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Modern Collective T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mudskipper, The T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Noriega - AKA - Bolt or Jolt TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
P&H T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pisces T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Psycho Jap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ridiculoid T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shape Shifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Silver Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sirius T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Sleep Walker , The S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spider T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Summer V5 6C
Super Slab T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Super Vivid V5 6C
TRad Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tickery T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tokyo Rose S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trickery T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Twilight Singer T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wallow In The Hollow T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
We Don't Toprope T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zeitgeist T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown, pre-1999 -- FRA: John Biehn, 1999 -- FFA: Will Adsit and Lowell Miyagi, Oct. 23, 2010
Page Views: 1,413 total, 16/month
Shared By: Will Adsit on Dec 2, 2010
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Well, okay, sometimes we do. But we didn't that day!

Not a classic, but something else for others who, like us, have climbed everything at Chatfield more times than they can count. After having eyed the line for a few years, I finally decided to ground-up it. As far as I know, no one else has bothered in more than 10 years, except for Dr. Miyagi, of course.

Route Description:

Facing the cliff, around the right of the arete to the right of Forearm Frenzy is a short dihedral corner, overhanging to its left and kind of dirty. At the top and just to the left of the corner are a couple of ledges about 15 feet up. Start in the corner, climb up the dihedral until you can step over left and pull yourself onto the ledge about 15 feet up. Follow a very small "ramp" onto a first, proper ledge. (5.5)

Above the set of ledges is a short vertical face about 7 feet tall. Once on the first ledge, tend left and get on top of a second ledge a few feet higher (there's a prominent horizontal crack just above this ledge). From here, traverse out left until near the edge of the arete and then go straight up the face on its left side, which means surmounting the short vertical section using crimpers and a high step, to find yourself below a very easy slab. (crux, 5.6/5.6+) (The crux feels surprisingly exposed and committing for so short and otherwise easy of a climb.)

From there, stroll up very easy, Super Slab-like terrain to the top-out, where a number of gear anchor options await you. (5.2)

Location

See description above.

Protection

Standard rack will do it, assuming that includes some smaller cams, even some microcams. All trad. Many gear anchor options at top.

Be aware: the route and pro wander for the first half or so of the climb.

Be warned: Top-roping is not advisable without extreme caution, as you will run the risk of the climber falling over the left edge at the crux, where a scary swing over knife-sharp edges awaits. The same logic holds for the leader and the second; the leader should place pro in the easy terrain to help limit the second's potential to go over the left edge. Basically: Be very wary near that left edge, especially when cruxing.

Photos

Will Adsit
New Haven, CT
 
Will Adsit   New Haven, CT
 
Duly noted. Thanks for the additional background on this very obscure route! Mar 24, 2011
John Biehn
Madison, CT
  5.6
John Biehn   Madison, CT
  5.6
Good to see people leading at Chatfield! Great spot and some of the routes protect excellently!

Although the FA of this route probably came long ago... It was actually the first route I ever climbed there back in '99 and I'm sure had been climbed before than. Mar 18, 2011