Elevation: 902 ft
GPS: 41.557, -72.834 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 60,168 total · 342/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson
Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties. Details

Description

This area lies above the town of Meriden. A small "Castle" (Castle Crag) sits at the summit of the peak and affords an excellent view of central CT. The road to the top is closed evenings and during the winter - check the sign at the gate and make sure you don't get locked in. When the road is closed a bit of hiking is needed to get to the crags.Most of the best crags overlook Merimere Reservoir, part of the Meriden water supply.

UPDATED ACCESS NEWS: Congratulations RMF!!!
   The city of Meriden recognizes climbing as a legitimate recreational activity on town land only for those individuals who maintain active membership with the Ragged Mountain Foundation.
   Now active members of The RMF can obtain permits sanctioned by Meriden’s Department of Parks and Recreation that allow for the responsible use of the town’s many cliff sides, trails, and boulders in pursuit of rock climbing. (Make no mistake, this is a huge deal for CT climbing!)

   Permits can be obtained (by active dues paying RMF members only) from the Meriden Parks and Recreation building located at 460 Liberty Street between the hours of 7:30 am and 3:30 pm for a $5 fee. Please be aware that it may take up to 30 days between the time of purchasing a membership with the Ragged Mountain Foundation and appearing on the city’s list of individual climbers authorized to receive permits. Please be aware that permits are issued on an individual basis, and are not interchangeable between multiple members in a single party. Each permit issued is valid for one year from the time of registration and will require renewal annually at the parks and recreation offices to remain as such.

From Left to Right the crags are as follows:
1. Castle Crag
2. Rite of Spring
3. Dihedral Section
4. Amphitheater
5. Fall Wall
6. Merimere Face

Getting There

Take Exit 4 off I-691 and head southeast on Rt. 322 towards Meriden. Go about .7 mile and turn sharp left into Hubbard Park. Follow Mirror Lake Dr. around lake and past the swimming pool until it ends at Hubbard Park Dr. Turn left. Just beneath the highway overpass is a gate that closes the road to the castle at night (currently 4:45 pm) and in winter (November through April).

If gate to castle is open, note posted closing time and drive up road 3 miles (taking left fork) and park in lot by castle. Follow the blue-blazed trail east from the parking lot for 5-10 minutes. The top of the cliffs are on your right.

If the gate to castle is closed, park and walk past the gate up the road. Just as you reach the reservoir, turn left onto a gated dirt road. Follow the dirt road a couple hundred yards until it curves sharply left. Take a faint trail on the right. The trail crosses a small stream and heads up left through the woods several hundred feet to an open scree slope. Follow the trail diagonally left up through the scree to a steep, faint trail that leads to base of the cliffs near route "Shades of Grey" and "Grey Corner" (Amphitheater Area). A sketchy, loose goat trail skirts the bottom of the cliffs. Go left for Rite of Spring and Dihedral Section; go right for Fall Wall and Merimere Face.

40 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: East Peak Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at East Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 22
Rat Crack
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Black Corner
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 11
Downcast
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 32
Thor's Hammer
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Squirrel Cage
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Reflections of Fall
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 34
Cat Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 5
Rite of Spring
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 11
Sickle
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 4
Thunder Bolt Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 21
Dol Guldur
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 8
Superstructure
TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Trial and Triumph
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Volcanic Eruption
TR
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
 3
In the Presence of God
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rat Crack Amphitheater
 22
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Black Corner Amphitheater
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Downcast Dihedral Section
 11
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Thor's Hammer Merimere Face
 32
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Squirrel Cage Amphitheater
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Reflections of Fall Fall Wall
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cat Crack Amphitheater
 34
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rite of Spring Rite of Spring
 5
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Sickle Amphitheater
 11
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Thunder Bolt Crack Merimere Face
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Dol Guldur Amphitheater
 21
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Superstructure Amphitheater
 8
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R TR
Trial and Triumph Fall Wall
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Volcanic Eruption Amphitheater
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
In the Presence of God Amphitheater
 3
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c TR
More Classic Climbs in East Peak »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos