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Areas in East Peak

Alcove, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Amphitheater 7 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Castle Crag 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Dihedral Section 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Fall Wall 6 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Merimere Face 2 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Rite of Spring 6 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Elevation: 904 ft
GPS: 41.557, -72.834 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 29,562 total, 206/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Morgan Patterson

Description

This area lies above the town of Meriden. A small "Castle" (Castle Crag) sits at the summit of the peak and affords an excellent view of central CT. The road to the top is closed evenings and during the winter - check the sign at the gate and make sure you don't get locked in. When the road is closed a bit of hiking is needed to get to the crags.Most of the best crags overlook Merimere Reservoir, part of the Meriden water supply.

From Left to Right the crags are as follows:
1. Castle Crag
2. Rite of Spring
3. Dihedral Section
4. Amphitheater
5. Fall Wall
6. Merimere Face
Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Getting There

Take Exit 4 off I-691 and head southeast on Rt. 322 towards Meriden. Go about .7 mile and turn sharp left into Hubbard Park. Follow Mirror Lake Dr. around lake and past the swimming pool until it ends at Hubbard Park Dr. Turn left. Just beneath the highway overpass is a gate that closes the road to the castle at night (currently 4:45 pm) and in winter (November through April).

If gate to castle is open, note posted closing time and drive up road 3 miles (taking left fork) and park in lot by castle. Follow the blue-blazed trail east from the parking lot for 5-10 minutes. The top of the cliffs are on your right.

If the gate to castle is closed, park and walk past the gate up the road. Just as you reach the reservoir, turn left onto a gated dirt road. Follow the dirt road a couple hundred yards until it curves sharply left. Take a faint trail on the right. The trail crosses a small stream and heads up left through the woods several hundred feet to an open scree slope. Follow the trail diagonally left up through the scree to a steep, faint trail that leads to base of the cliffs near route "Shades of Grey" and "Grey Corner" (Amphitheater Area). A sketchy, loose goat trail skirts the bottom of the cliffs. Go left for Rite of Spring and Dihedral Section; go right for Fall Wall and Merimere Face.

37 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at East Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rat Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Twin Crack Right
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost Corner
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Corner
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Downcast
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thor's Hammer
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Squirrel Cage
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reflections of Fall
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cat Crack
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rite of Spring
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Thunder Bolt Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dol Guldur
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Superstructure
TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Volcanic Eruption
TR
5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
In the Presence of God
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Rat Crack Amphitheater 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Twin Crack Right Rite of Spring 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Lost Corner Dihedral Section 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Black Corner Amphitheater 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Downcast Dihedral Section 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Thor's Hammer Merimere Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Squirrel Cage Amphitheater 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Reflections of Fall Fall Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Cat Crack Amphitheater 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Rite of Spring Rite of Spring 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Thunder Bolt Crack Merimere Face 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
Dol Guldur Amphitheater 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Superstructure Amphitheater 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R TR
Volcanic Eruption Amphitheater 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b TR
In the Presence of God Amphitheater 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c TR
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