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Routes in Amphitheater

Black Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dol Guldur T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grey Corner T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In the Presence of God TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pearly Gates TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squirrel Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stepping Razor TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstructure TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Toxic Shock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volcanic Eruption TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Stephen Arsenault & Sam Streibert
Page Views: 5,088 total, 42/month
Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Dec 24, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

Start is loose blocks to a great hand / fist crack to the top. Sustained climbing to the crux near the top where the crack thins to fingers. Wonderful crack climbing- tape is reccomended.

Location

Cat Crack is the right dominate crack going up the Amphitheatre face. Once on top rap off of trees...

Protection

Great pro to 3"; Natural anchors (trees) at the top-
Phenominal climb. Personally I think the Crux is right after you clear the small roof from the chimney and gain your stance on the small ledge to climbers right. Above that, those sequence of moves was more difficult then the Crux up top at the double crack. If you set up a TR definitely set it left of the top of the route by 5 to 6 ft. Thats centered on the route. If you don't when you fall and swing out in that first Crux I mentioned after the roof you will not be able to get back past that slanting left facing corner. Made that mistake the first time I did the route. Haft to lead it soon. Got the moves dialed. Oct 15, 2017
Kevin Johnson
  5.10a
Kevin Johnson  
  5.10a
Watch out for the nesting Morning Dove near the base of the open chimney alcove. If you must do the route, the nest and chicks can easily be avoided by climbing on the left side of the alcove. May 27, 2017
Yes, it can be top-roped from below with a single 60 if you're careful and hang the anchors over the edge. Make sure your ends are even and knotted when rapping in... Mar 8, 2017
Can this be top roped with a 60m rope without belaying from the top? Mar 2, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Nice hand crack - reminiscent of On The Loose at Spider's Web. It is sustained, but as soon as it starts to feel hard, a bomber hand jam appears. Definitely need to be delicate climbing through the loose flakes crammed in the lower wide section. A crow bar down low might make it safer, but harder moving up the off width. Oct 28, 2016
Kevin Johnson
  5.10a
Kevin Johnson  
  5.10a
After the first large block was pulled off, we went to inspect the climb. After WiseOldMoon led it we pulled another loose block below the first. The route has changed slightly, but is no harder than before. Check out the changes. 10.9.14 Nov 13, 2014
Andy Tuller
New Haven, CT
Andy Tuller   New Haven, CT
Major rock fall today on the route.

I climbed this route last year and remember being worried about the detached block at the top. Today a friend and I went back; I convinced myself it was fine to climb again. My friend led it, and didn't feel the block move. I seconded the route and as I pulled up onto the block it moved 3-5 inches. I yarded on the rope to get to the top. Worried that the block would kill someone, we rapped back in, gave it a little push, and the whole thing came off (about the size of a refrigerator).

It was getting dark so we didn't have time to closely inspect the changes to the route. If anything it might have made the route better, exposing a new section of splitter hands where you used to layback the block.

It would probably be a good idea to rap and inspect before leading; there might still be some loose stone.

Scary moment. Glad it didn't come down while someone was leading. Sep 27, 2014
WiseOldMoon
West Hartford, Connecticut
WiseOldMoon   West Hartford, Connecticut
On 11/25/13 the large chockstone at the begininng of the offwidth section came loose. The difficulty has increased marginally. Extra care should be taken in the rotten rock section. A large smearing left-foothold is questionable in the same section as well. Nov 26, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
Thanks for posting Stephen! Have someone take some photos of your ascent if you can - it would be great see them on the site!! Apr 29, 2013
Having done the 1st ascent of this route, with Sam Streibert, I went back last year to repeat it, but it was soaking wet. We didn't have cams BITD, and it must be easier with modern gear and sticky rubber.

I plan to get back on this soon Apr 29, 2013
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
I agree with Kevin - it's great to have a sustained crack climb in CT that requires good technique. That said, I got worked. It's got few rests. Nov 28, 2011
Kevin Johnson
  5.10a
Kevin Johnson  
  5.10a
The best hand crack line in CT, with actual hand jamming through the crux of the route. This climb is a must for any CT crack lover. Dec 12, 2010
jackkelly00
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
Great climb and very sustained. A few seperate cruxes but hardest part is tight hands. Takes good gear. 1st pro is 15 feet off the ground (easy moves on bad rock) so be careful. Hard .10 May 28, 2010
Tuxebo
Middletown, RI
 
Tuxebo   Middletown, RI
 
This climb was very sustained and the closest thing to the Creek I have climbed in CT. Quite possibly the best crack in CT, actual jamming and not face climbing. Awesome. Sep 1, 2008
T Roper
DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
T Roper   DC,VA,NM,UT,CT,MA
 
I'll be bringing a #5 camelot just 'cause Jan 20, 2008