Climbing in Connecticut dates back before the 1930s when college outing clubs such as the Yale Mountaineering Club and the Appalachian Mountain Club were on the edge of exploring these wild places to climb. The state is rich with classics, put up by legends such as Fritz Wiessner, John Reppy, Sam Streibert, Layton Kor, Henry Barber, and many other local heroes pushing the limits of free climbing.
The state's Central region boasts the Traprock Ridge, which contains gems like Ragged Mountain Main Cliff, East Peak, Pinnacle, Cat Hole, and many smaller areas. This area also has great potential for bouldering near the climbing areas. The rock is basalt, a volcanic rock from eons ago. The texture is somewhat smooth, similar to bullet sandstone, but the sharp edges and unique features offer a distinct feel to the rock. There are as many face climbs as there are limited crack systems to climb in the area; perfect splitters are few and usually rounded off, making for some interesting climbing.
The South Central region of Connecticut along the shoreline offers plenty of climbing opportunities. Most notable is Chatfield Hollow in Killingworth. The short approach, easy parking on state land, and a wide range of climbs, although few compared to the mid-state traprock, make this a favorite quick-fix destination for area climbers. You are treated to some high-quality granitic gneiss here, overhanging faces and great cracks, well worth a visit if you're in the area.
Bouldering can be found everywhere in Connecticut; glacial erratic boulders are strewn across the state thanks to the second ice age. Mystic, Haddam, West Hartford, New Haven, and Fairfield County offer notable bouldering areas. Hammonasset State Park even has camping facilities in a state beach park with some bouldering on the shore. The best bouldering in the state is found in the North West corner around New Milford, Kent, and Torrington. However, much of this is extremely access sensitive, leaving it unpublished and undocumented.
Climbing in Connecticut is awesome; even though we do not have the sweeping ridge lines of some of our western neighbors, the character of the climbing makes up for any lack of height. Crag height ranges from about 110 feet to 30-foot power climbs. The grading here seems stiff to some (aka Sandbagged); many classics have been up since the 1930's when a 5.7 was cutting edge! Many climbers find that the trad leads can be quite exhilarating, be warned that fixed protection is not always a given due to a tumultuous history in the state, so be ready for some surprises and don't trust any descriptions listing fixed gear in guidebooks.
There is only one guidebook in print, The Falcon Guide- Rock Climbing Connecticut by David Fasulo. However, several other guidebooks have been published by the American Alpine Club, the Ragged Mountain Foundation, and past Climbers, which are out of print.
If anything, remember that climbing is a time to enjoy the outdoors and nature. Always be stewards of the land that we share. Pick up any trash you see, respect wildlife, and encourage others to do the same.
This state has tons of climbing, strong ethics and a long and wild history of access issues. There are several organizations associated with climbing in CT...
Check out Appalachian Mountain Club, Connecticut Climbers and Mountaineers and The Ragged Mountain Foundation
Please contribute your experiences and knowledge to MP and a few dollars if you can spare to any one of the above organizations, contributions are greatly appreciated.
Tread lightly and climb on!
Below is an interactive map showing the geographic regions of CT.
Source: https://mrdata.usgs.gov/geology/state/map-us.html#home
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North Kingstown, RI
NH
I made the change from N/S/E/W to the geographic regions for various reasons, one being to educate people who climb in our state. I switched to this language and to educate folks but also provide a different perspective on our state, one which includes its unique geological history. It provides a better perspective of the landscapes of CT.
I figured if I got enough complaints I would revert back to the generic compass references rather than the geographic ones but I think the terms really bring about a better sense of identity or understanding of the land and state as you peruse the state on MP and even drive through it in person. I took a few courses back in college about language, nature and culture... one of the things we look at was how the different uses of language link cultures and people to the land. N/S/E/W is a white wash of the uniqueness of our state and provides little understanding of our land, it's bland and provides no connection to the state. The current breakdown identifies with our land, provides perspective, and I think might educate a few people along the way.
Clearly I put too much time into this one... Aug 26, 2015
North Kingstown, RI
mindat.org/loc-230337.html