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Areas in Pinnacle Rock

A-Frame Wall 6 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Cracked Wall 8 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Dream Weaver Wall 5 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Emerald City Slab 5 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Entertainer Wall 4 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Lone Pine 5 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Nike Base 9 / 0 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Right Wing Wall 9 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
South Pinnacle Slab (Closed) 5 / 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

Description

Whether you're just getting into the sport and this is your first time climbing outdoors or you're a seasoned veteran looking for your next project, Pinnacle is a great place for climbers of all grades. Pinnacle is home to classics such as Zambezi Hatchet Head, Emerald City and Entertainer. The routes vary from 50 - 80ft in height and consist of basalt rock (aka trap rock).

The cliff is located on commercial private property and climbing is not officially allowed however, climbers have been climbing here since the late 70's. Please carpool if possible because parking is minimal at best. Due to the short approach, locals tend to party at the crag leaving smashed beer bottles and garbage behind. Please help by taking a little extra garbage out on your visit. Any help is greatly appreciated by the RMF and all climbers alike. The RMF and others have been working for decades with the land owners on proper access so please be respectful of the property as well as adjacent land owners as they will be critical in any future deal that may materialize.

The areas from climber's left to right are:
1. Lone Pine
2. Emerald City Slab
3. A-Frame Wall
4. Dream Weaver Wall
5. Right Wing Wall
6. Entertainer Wall
7. Cracked Wall

There are access trails on the left and right side of the crag.

Getting There

From Waterbury: Take I-84 east to exit 34, Crooked Street. Make a left at the end of the ramp. Go to the end of the road, about .25 mile, and make a left at the light-Route 372. Go about .7 mile to a VW car dealership on the right corner. Make a right at the light onto Metacomet Road.

From Hartford: Take I-84 west to exit 33, Route 72. Turn right at the end of the ramp onto New Britain Ave. Go .2 mile, and make a left at the light (at VW car dealership) onto Metacomet Road.

Once on Metacomet Rd: Go about a mile until road turns sharp left and you see a pond on the left. The trailhead is on the right at the curve. Parking is a little farther up the road, but avoid the NO PARKING signs. Take the dirt jeep trail into the woods. After about 100 yards, turn right at the big cement blocks onto a climber's trail which leads to the base of the cliffs.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Pinnacle Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 8
Double Crutch
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 68
First Crack
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 22
Right Wing
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 21
A-Frame
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Sixth Sense
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 14
Narrowing Experience
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
 42
Second Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
Locomotive Breath
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 11
Yucca Flats
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 55
Emerald City
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 53
Zambezi Hatchet Head
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 5
Great Expectations
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Tomahawk
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 3
Dream Weaver
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 15
The Entertainer
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Double Crutch A-Frame Wall
 8
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
First Crack Cracked Wall
 68
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Right Wing Right Wing Wall
 22
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
A-Frame A-Frame Wall
 21
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Sixth Sense Cracked Wall
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Narrowing Experience Entertainer Wall
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, TR
Second Crack Cracked Wall
 42
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 Trad, TR
Locomotive Breath Dream Weaver Wall
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Yucca Flats Right Wing Wall
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, TR
Emerald City Emerald City Slab
 55
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Zambezi Hatchet Head Right Wing Wall
 53
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Great Expectations Dream Weaver Wall
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, TR
Tomahawk Cracked Wall
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Dream Weaver Dream Weaver Wall
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, TR
The Entertainer Entertainer Wall
 15
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Pinnacle Rock »

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if you see some old dude setting up a solo TR who doesnt say hi when you do, stay away from him, he is a weirdo and will verbally assault you for climbing near him. I think he lives in the hood. Apr 22, 2008
Morgan Patterson   CT  
hahaha... maybe throw him some disgruntled looks of your own while your at it and talk about old farts not being able to climb. Jun 5, 2012
farkas.time
Albuquerque, NM
farkas.time   Albuquerque, NM
Pinnacle Rock is a really nice little crag with a great diversity of climbing across grades (which are generally a grade soft IMO). First Crack (5.4) could be one of the best beginner leads anywhere ever, Zambezi Hatchet Head (5.8) and Second Crack (5.7) are great leads (each with a little spooky runout), and The Entertainer (5.10) and Tasmanian Devil (5.10+) are great harder top-ropes worth a few reps each. Notable for me (and my partner, who listened to me hoot and holler about it all day), truly bomber nut placements on most climbs are remarkably abundant -- better than anywhere else I've ever climbed. Jun 11, 2016

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