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Routes in Entertainer Wall

Casual Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Entertainer, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Funshine TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Narrowing Experience T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Sunshine T,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c X
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,574 total · 24/month
Shared By: Kurtz on Aug 28, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Start on the face a few feet to the right of the small left-facing corner in the middle of the wall. Climb up to first ledge and then head left and up past an old bolt hole. Continue more-or-less straight up to the top.

Location

Walk off right

Protection

Requires gear to set up toprope anchor. Hang it further out toward the arete than you think.

Photos

tetrault   CT
This route provides great “entertainment” for those looking for some thin crux moves protected by a single, finicky cam of arguable quality, placed from a bit of a strenuous stance. A slightly runout start and a hollow flake up high only add to the show!

However, what this route may be lacking in G-rated safety, it makes up for with excellent, beta-intensive movement.

The “R” rating provided may be deserved for those attempting an on-sight.

Toprope Anchor:
Multiple options exist. You may decide to build an anchor on the ledge about 10ft down from the top of the cliff. It is also possible to build an anchor without going down to the ledge, or even getting too close to the cliff edge. For this, you will need a good amount of webbing/static line to properly position the master-point. Locate a shallow, flaring crack about 12” long, skier’s left of the arete. Small/medium tricams and/or medium stoppers fit here. About 6 feet skier’s right of this is a deeper crack that fits medium tricams and/or 0.5/0.75 C4’s. This crack is nearly in line with where most parties choose to put their anchor’s master-point, which is just a few inches climbers right of the arete on the ledge. May 21, 2015

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