Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: 1975 FFA: Trocchi & Heintz, 1976
Page Views: 6,263 total · 38/month
Shared By: David House on Oct 12, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Permits Required to Climb on City of Meriden, CT properties. Details


Climb the crack with a variety of thin fingers and face holds to the top of the crack, traverse left, go up and back right. Tricky and sequential, and tough to protect on the lead. You'll need every trick in the thin crack book. I am a bit embarrased to be posting this since after many tries I only managed to do this once during the mid 90's shortly after Ken Nichols had made his 1000th ascent of the line! I gave it the traditional 5.11 grade, but let me say this is a SOLID 5.11. One might whisper sandbag...


On the right side of the Amphitheater area is a large, left facing corner where Squirrel Cage is located. Dol Guldur is the thin crack system on the face to the left. To the left is the obvious overhanging jam crack of Cat Crack.


RP's, stoppers, small cams