Dol Guldur [Suggest Change]
Avg: 3.5 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 80 ft|
|FA:||1975 FFA: Trocchi & Heintz, 1976|
|Page Views:||4,804 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||David Hous on Oct 12, 2007|
Access Issue: Open with restrictions - Private Property Details
Climbing here is not technically legal, however , it is tolerated. Please keep a low profile.
Description [Suggest Change]
Climb the crack with a variety of thin fingers and face holds to the top of the crack, traverse left, go up and back right. Tricky and sequential, and tough to protect on the lead. You'll need every trick in the thin crack book. I am a bit embarrased to be posting this since after many tries I only managed to do this once during the mid 90's shortly after Ken Nichols had made his 1000th ascent of the line! I gave it the traditional 5.11 grade, but let me say this is a SOLID 5.11. One might whisper sandbag...
Location [Suggest Change]
On the right side of the Amphitheater area is a large, left facing corner where Squirrel Cage is located. Dol Guldur is the thin crack system on the face to the left. To the left is the obvious overhanging jam crack of Cat Crack.
Protection [Suggest Change]
RP's, stoppers, small cams