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Routes in Amphitheater

Black Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dol Guldur T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grey Corner T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In the Presence of God TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pearly Gates TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squirrel Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stepping Razor TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstructure TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Toxic Shock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volcanic Eruption TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,616 total, 13/month
Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Dec 24, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

Great corner system with a layback through the crux that is sustained through the upper 1/3 of the climb.

Location

Right side of the Amphitheater face - 1st left facing corner system- scramble to base to a comfy belay seat. Rap down from tree anchors...

Protection

Light rack to 3"

Photos

Do vector which is the right facing corner to the left of squirrel cage 2nd pitch. Climb the right facing corner 5.9ish traverse 10 ft left and send the roof crux. 5.10+. Long reach. Harder if short. Ascend the splitter crack to the top. Great gear in the roof before you pull it. You can set up a TR between the top of squirrel cage and vector if not leading and enjoy both. The top corner crack of squirrel cage has slick walls and makes it harder to lay back. Definitely need to use good technique weather your doing a lay back or crack climbing. 2nd pitch 5.9+. Pumppy, committing. Oct 15, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Upper corner is hard for the grade - tight hands - but great splitter climbing. Overall nice pitch! Don't need large cams for the lower easier wide crack. Oct 28, 2016