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Routes in Amphitheater

Black Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dol Guldur T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grey Corner T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In the Presence of God TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pearly Gates TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squirrel Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stepping Razor TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstructure TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Toxic Shock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volcanic Eruption TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,486 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jim O'Brien on Dec 17, 2007
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

The start on on the right wall of a chimney that rises 1/3 of the climb into an off width. the final moves are hands / fingers to the top. A great climb and a good introduction to chimneys.

Location

The route is obvious from the base, find the large chimney, left side of the crag as you face it- rap from tree anchors to decend.
70m helpful- tie knots at the end of your cord if using a 60m

Protection

Standard trad rack to 3", no fixed gear but solid trees for an anchor.

Photos

At the top there is an awesome crack in the right corner standing on the ledge. Go in direct off one of the trees just three ft. From the edge and drop down to the ledge four ft down and start building anchor climbers right. Try the splitter crack above the chimney to climbers left. Increases the grade. 5.8 possibly 5.8+ Aug 8, 2017
If this is 110ft how does a 60m rope work? Just wondering since you said tie knots . Seems to me it would be 20ft short before any stretch? Thanks Nov 22, 2016
Jim Shippee
  5.7
Jim Shippee  
  5.7
Hands down my favorite CT route to date, strenuous and exhilarating. This route has every aspect of climbing, chimney, face, cracks, off with & tons of excitement. Found it to be completely G except one easy section on top. Part of me feels as if I mentally evolved after reaching completing this objective. PTCOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jun 4, 2014
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Beware the poison ivy vine on climber's right about 15 ft from the top. Sep 24, 2012
jackkelly00
new hampshire
jackkelly00   new hampshire
Awesome route. Crack and chimney climbing. Old school 5.7. In my humble opinion one of the best 5.7 leads in CT

Starts as a finger crack then through a bulge. Goes to chimney (almost runout) then to some hand crack.

Gear to 4" May 28, 2010
Eastvillage
New York, NY
5.7
Eastvillage   New York, NY
5.7
Classic Fritz route. Strenuous. Jun 30, 2008