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Routes in Amphitheater

Black Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dol Guldur T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grey Corner T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In the Presence of God TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pearly Gates TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squirrel Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stepping Razor TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstructure TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Toxic Shock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volcanic Eruption TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: TR
FA: Sam Slater
Page Views: 877 total · 13/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Sep 24, 2012
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

This route ascends the face to the right of Dol Guldur. Hard, technical and sustained 5.12 crimping leads to a ~V7/8 crux about halfway up the route. Climbing gets a bit easier getting to the “roof” and the top. TR is a pain to set up, but well worth it. To the best of my knowledge, it has been sent by only 3 individuals: Sam Slater (FA), J.D.Mackey, and Ken Nichols (questionable – but I have seen him get damn close at age 63). Someday this will be a GREAT lead. -Topo Gigio

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cbtacy
  5.12d
cbtacy  
  5.12d
Super sustained and technical. Highly sequential. Definitely worth the effort. Jun 26, 2017
Topo Gigio  
 
I guess I can clarify by saying that the actual TR setup is not a pain, but rather, setting up the directional in the crack in the face in order to make the climb easier to work, is a pain. Hope that clears it up a bit for you. Extra beta- May also make sense to TR it on a static, if you’ve got one, so that the fall at the crux doesn’t sink you back down near the start of the climb. Apr 24, 2017
tetrault   CT
If you don't mind me asking, what makes this climb a pain to set up on TR? Apr 9, 2017
Topo Gigio  
 
Hard, technical and sustained 5.12 crimping leads to a ~V7/8 crux about halfway up the route. Climbing gets a bit easier getting to the “roof” and the top. TR is a pain to set up, but well worth it. To the best of my knowledge, it has been sent by only 3 individuals: Sam Slater (FA), J.D.Mackey, and Ken Nichols (questionable – but I have seen him get damn close at age 63). Someday this will be a GREAT lead. Oct 13, 2016
Looks absolutely amazing this climb. Jun 1, 2013

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