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Routes in Amphitheater

Black Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dol Guldur T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grey Corner T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In the Presence of God TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pearly Gates TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squirrel Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stepping Razor TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstructure TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Toxic Shock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volcanic Eruption TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,434 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mulligan on Mar 26, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

This route is somewhat sustained and is a very enjoyable lead or TR. The crux comes for most, especially shorter climbers, about 15 feet up.

Location

This route is the next corner system to the right of Squirrel Cage and is the obvious black dihedral. There are several gulleys available for descent, the easiest being to the right when facing the wall.

Protection

The gear is a little dicey with microcams being very useful around the crux. Even with the right size gear the crux may feel heady, especially for shorter climbers. There is a tree on top along with cracks to make an anchor.

Photos

Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
Seemed like standard CT pro... funny how this is 8+ and next to squirrel cage "5.9". Apr 3, 2017
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Technical gear placements down low with some run-out and ground fall potential. Not for the new 5.8 leader. Reasonable lead for an experienced trad leader. Critical small nut placement at crux. Oct 28, 2016
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
If we're calling Squirrel Cage 5.9, this is more like 5.7+. Gear is definitely dicey at the crux, seems like an SLCD behind that block might blow it out. Otherwise, I found it enjoyable. Nov 28, 2011