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Routes in Amphitheater

Black Corner T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cat Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dol Guldur T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Grey Corner T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
In the Presence of God TR 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Pearly Gates TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sickle T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squirrel Cage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stepping Razor TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Superstructure TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Toxic Shock TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Volcanic Eruption TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: John Reppy, Alan Wedgewood
Page Views: 701 total, 9/month
Shared By: Joel A on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

An uneven route that begins with 60 ft of lichen-covered 5.7+ climbing on a somewhat ledge-prone arete and finishes up a steep and exposed finger crack on the face.

Location

Ramp/arete left of Rat Crack, which is the obvious gaping hole. If you're going to anchor from trees and rappel down, watch your ends. I used almost the whole 60 m rope getting down.

Protection

Falcon guide gives this a PG.

Photos

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Spainman
5.10b/c R
Spainman  
5.10b/c R
I tried to lead the route today for the first time and I fell in the last move. I found the route much harder than more of the 5.10s that I lead in Gunks. The protection for half of the route is very poor. The traverse half way to the route is very thin. I protected the move with a tiny wire under my feet. The last 40 feet are very intense with no rest. I give a personal grade of 5.10b/c. Nov 8, 2015