Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: John Reppy, Alan Wedgewood
Page Views: 811 total · 9/month
Shared By: Joel A on Jul 4, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Access Issue: Open with restrictions - Private Property Details

Description

An uneven route that begins with 60 ft of lichen-covered 5.7+ climbing on a somewhat ledge-prone arete and finishes up a steep and exposed finger crack on the face.

Location

Ramp/arete left of Rat Crack, which is the obvious gaping hole. If you're going to anchor from trees and rappel down, watch your ends. I used almost the whole 60 m rope getting down.

Protection

Falcon guide gives this a PG.

Photos

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Spainman
5.10b/c R
Spainman  
5.10b/c R
I tried to lead the route today for the first time and I fell in the last move. I found the route much harder than more of the 5.10s that I lead in Gunks. The protection for half of the route is very poor. The traverse half way to the route is very thin. I protected the move with a tiny wire under my feet. The last 40 feet are very intense with no rest. I give a personal grade of 5.10b/c. Nov 8, 2015